Last updated :July 7th 2009

If you wish to add any entries to this FAQ, or amend existing entries, please send me an email with details of changes.  All contributions welcome.

What is the Suzuki SV?

New buyers guide
What are the specifications for the 650 (99-02)?

What are the performance figures for the 650 (99-02)?

What are the performance figures for the 650 03-

What are the specifications for the 1000?
What are the performance figures for the 1000?
Are there issues with cam chain tensioners?
Are there issues with fuel filler caps?

Where can I read a review.

What are the differences in the models over the years

How to: carb needle shimming / rejetting / adjusting air/fuel mixture / removing air filter snorkel (the air filter snorkel removal will *not* increase power)

http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/howtoshim.html
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/airfuel.html
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_snorkel.html

The SV650 was originally introduced in 1999. It was available in two versions, faired (SV650s) and naked (SV650). Production has continued until 2002. In 2003 the SV650 and 650s were updated with new styling and had fuel injection added. The engine may be interchangable between the old and new models but not much else is. To complement the SV650, Suzuki also introduced the SV1000 again in naked and faired versions.

See my link to the specs on the Stratten site.

Figures are pretty thin on the ground at the moment (Nov '99) but these figures were published in May 1999 Cycle World :

1/4 mi. 11.85 sec. @ 110.17mph.

0-30 mph 1.34 sec.
0-60 mph 3.20 sec.
0-90 mph 6.79 sec.
0-100 mph 8.76 sec.

40-60 mph 3.27 sec.
60-80 mph 3.90 sec.

Measured top speed 128 mph

Yes, on some bikes the cam chain tensioner(s) are very noisy. Get them checked by your dealer. Instist on having them replaced under warranty if you are still concerned that there is a problem. I had my cam chain tensioners replaced under warranty on 06/11/00.

Yes, in some cases water can collect in the fuel filler cap recess in the fuel tank and will not drain away down the drain tube because the tube may be kinked underneath the hinged fuel tank. See deal with water in the fuel for more information. See also this word doc from Steve Warburton.

N.B. Read all of this before you start. If you've not got the right tools or if you're not confident in using a tool kit, then get a professional to do it. it involves the braking system, and you don't want to get it wrong.

Do one side at a time.

Remove the brake calliper bolts and the P clip which attaches the calliper and the brake hose to the fork leg. The calliper will be stiff to pull of of the brake disc. I find that it's easiest to hold the calliper with a cloth and swivel it back and forth until it comes free. Hold the calliper so that you can see into the gap between the brake pads. 

At the bottom of the calliper is the pad retaining pin, which is held in place by a small R clip. Remove the R clip with a small pair of pliers and pull out the pad retaining pin. You may have trouble with this, some people have found that the pin is seized solid in the calliper. Mine were fine, because they had been assembled with some copper grease.

Remove the fixed pad by swivelling the bottom out and then sliding it off of the top pad retaining pin.

Remove the moving pad by pulling it away from the pistons, the sprung base plate will make it pop out when it is free of it's retaining lugs.

This is a good opportunity to inspect the wear on the pads and to clean out the wear indicator groves with a small flat blade screwdriver. Be careful not to loose the anti-squeel shim from the back of the moving pad.

Clean the pistons with a cotton bud and some brake fluid. Any Dot 4 fluid is fine, but keep a small bottle purely for cleaning the pistons, NEVER USE IT IN THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. It will quickly fill up with atmospheric water and miscellaneous dirt, and will be dangerous to use as brake fluid. Gently dab some fluid onto the
curved surface of the pistons, just enough so that it soaks into the muck and loosens it. Don't use too much and get it all over everywhere, since it will damage paint work. When the muck is soaked, it should come away fairly easily. You probably won't be able to get all the way round the pistons, but the fluid will soak in to the bits that you can't reach. Wipe round the pistons with a dry cotton bud and the muck should just fall off.

You need to press the pistons back into the calliper a couple of mm to allow easy refitting of the calliper to the fork leg. I use a couple of small carpenters G cramps. I doesn't need much pressure, but the G cramps allow you to apply that pressure accurately. Fit one cramp and do it up just tight enough to keep it in place. Fit the second cramp and compress the piston a couple of mm. Then compress the other piston the same amount. If you try it with just one cramp, then as you press one piston, the other will be pushed out, rather than squeeze the brake fluid back up to the master cylinder. Don't push the pistons too far in, otherwise the reservoir may overflow and leak fluid.

Refit the moving pad with a little copper grease on the back of the pad. Make sure it is pushed fully against the pistons.

Refit the fixed pad on the top pad retaining pin.

Smear some copper grease onto the removable retaining pin and push through the caliper, through the holes in both brake pads and into the caliper at the far side. The holes in the pads will not line up properly, you'll have to gently press them into the caliper against the sprung base plate. Rotate the pin as necessary and insert the
small R clip.

Make sure that the moving pad is pressed fully against the pistons and that the fixed pad is fully against the caliper body. This will give ample room between the pads to fit over the brake disc.

Fit the caliper over the disk and refit the caliper mounting bolts. Us a little copper grease on the threads and torque them to 28 lb/ft (39 N/m) (thanks RonnieD). Reattach the P clip holding the brake hose.

Do the other caliper in the same way.

Since you pressed the pistons back into the calipers a way, the pads will not be touching the discs. With both calipers cleaned and refitted, slowly squeeze the brake lever. It will easily come all the way back to the bar. slowly release and reapply the brake. After about half a dozen times, the pads will be in contact with the disc and the action at the lever should be firm. Wheel the bike around and check that the brakes work correctly and release correctly. 

Here's a piece for your FAQ section. Oh....OK then....

My reworking of the SV continues - just thought I would send the lazy way of changing the fork oil and adding spacers - without removing the forks!

Lets face it, removing the front wheel, mudguard, calipers, forks etc is a right pain - there is a better way and it can be done in under 15 minutes! You need a thin bamboo pole about 3 foot long, 2 metres of 10mm flexible pipe, a bent nail, 1 litre of fork oil and a selection of 35mm washers. You are now ready to convert the washed out front suspension without removing the fork legs and it can be done in under 15 minutes!

First loosen the fork caps, now jack up the front wheel clear of the ground. 
Remove the fork caps completely - dont worry about the caps popping upwards with spring tension, there is none!
Remove the metal spacer tubes from inside the forks. 
Attach your bent nail to bamboo stick with tape, grovell inside forks and pull up to remove spacer washer, then grovel again and remove the spring.
Remove bent nail, insert bamboo pole into one leg, until it goes to the bottom - careful, the bottom has a recess in, get it right and you will feel the pole go down another six inches. 
Pull back out and mark oil level on bamboo stick with black marker pen for reference later.
Attach pipe to bamboo stick right at the end and again send to inside of forks, down into recess. Suck on pipe and all the oil will magically drain into can. Catch what can! - Whoops sorry you need a can to catch oil in! Process takes about two minutes and does remove all the oil! Drain second leg same.
Pour 480ml of 15 sw oil into first leg, insert bamboo stick and careful top up to reference mark made earlier. Follow suit with second leg. (Mr Suzuki was a full 30mm different from one leg to the other in my SV - you now have two perfectly balanced legs - 489 ml is the correct amount per leg) 
Insert springs, then amount of washers to increase preload that you require - I inserted 15mm each side and it feels not bad. The washers must be 35mm exactly, anymore and they will not fit inside the legs. I managed to find some at 35.5mm and had to grind the .5mm off.
Just drop an equal amount in each leg and top off with the original suzuki washer. 
Insert the spacers and tighten up the fork caps - you will have to push down hard as you tighten as your washers are now doing their job. 
Lower jack and burn rubber up the street!

Some people prefer thicker 20 sw oil, or more spacers, around 19mm not uncommon. With the rear set on number four, the front now feels matched, doesn't flop when braking and has helped no end with the pitching (UK roads).

Rates about a seven on the improvement scale. You could do better and fit aftermarket springs but not for the £8 the above cost inc the oil.

So there you have it - the laziest way of uprating the SV front yet!

Kev, haven't forgotten about rewriting the undertray bit - waiting for a sunny day for nice piccys etc. Thanks, send them when you have them!

My next job is the rejetting for the Scorpion can ( bloody loud can or what! - has transformed lower pulling power though) - there must be a lazier way for that! If there is you'll find it....

I enjoy your site and have found it very useful. good...  I recently ordered a repair manual from Motocom, the url is http://www.motocom.com  It is the official Suzuki service manual for both the sv650x and sv650s. It comes unbound in loose leaf form and is punched to fit a standard 3 ring binder. It is not as user-friendly as a Haynes or Clymer manual, but contains every technical detail. 

Or you can download from this site here

How to install a Targa Fairing 

View the how to

Kevin, thanks for an outstanding site. thanks.. Here are some additional details on installing a non-touring ScottOiler on a California-model bike. (I know you're in the UK, but we're readin' you all over the world!) 

SV owners lucky enough to live in California will find that the emissions equipment on their bikes makes ScottOiler installation a bit tricky.  Here are a few details I discovered when I installed mine.

I found that installing the oiler behind the left plastic access grill (the one you unscrew to get at the seat screws) was the way to go. When you open up that grill, you'll find that there's some plumbing in there that  doesn't exist on non-CA bikes. That means that there is no room for the mounting bracket suggested in main FAQ article. It took me a while to figure out exactly how to fit the oiler into that space and still make it adjustable.

1. Carefully bend back the bracket that holds the plumbing. I bent it about 1/2 inch, which created more room in the compartment. It bent easily. See the picture at http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/oilerMount1.jpg 

2. Superglue one of the flexible plastic mounting sleeves to the inside of the frame. Angle it so that the flow control on the top of the ScottOiler is accessible. See the picture at http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/oilerMount2.jpg 

3. I found that using the supplied wheel nut bracket was the most straightforward way to get the delivery tube into place. I had to bend it to get the tube exactly where I wanted it. See these pictures:
http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/tubeBracket1.jpg  and http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/tubeBracket2.jpg 

4. The ScottOiler instructions suggest you use the ScottOil bottle to prime the system. I used my mouth. It took a lot of puffing, but it worked, and avoided accidentally getting any oil into the air intake tube.

As promised ages ago here are the revised details for undertray fitting that does away with dodgy tie straps and the like as details in the FAQ. No doubt undertrays differ, but most will be similar. Most of the weight of the fender is removed but the remaining allows a firm installation of the tray.

First remove both seats, then the rear bodywork. There are four bolts under the seats for this, plus two screws underneath. Beware also that there is a locating lug at each side that the panels push into - carefull pulling pressure is required. Split the rear bodywork (the cable for the seat lock is easily removed) by removing the two screws holding the rear light cowl, and also the rubber washers were it fastened under the seat. It is easier to fit the undertray whilst wresting with one side of bodywork at a time.
Remove battery. 
Remove the rear fender - four bolts underneath into the frame, two near the indicators.
Saw rear fender about 10 to 15 mm rearwards of the clip that holds the tank prop (this leaves one lug left that holds the toolkit.) - SEE IMAGES CUT 1 AND CUT 2.You should only be discarding about a foot of fender. 
Refit using the four frame bolts. Place the rear bodywork (temp) back in position and offer up the undertray. Mine went under the bodywork at the grab rails, but on top of the rear fender. Slight trimming may be required, around the rear hand rails. Patience is required. If the undertray is under pressure from the battery box end, carefully warm up the inside off the tray with a ciggy lighter and bend appropriately.

Your undertray will now fit badly around the rear light! The undertray emerges at the light from underneath the rear body and swaps to being on top at the last 15mm. This allows you to screw through this into the existing lugs right at the rear of the bodywork. By careful filing you will slowly get an improvement. Again I had to use a ciggy lighter, to warm the undertray, and bend the edges for a better fit. The gap looks worse than it is - you will know what I mean when you fit it! 

Put the light cowl back on top and the rear seat to cut out the light and things will look much better.

I spent over half the time fitting mine (about 3 hours) shaping around the rear light. At the other end your undertray will locate over the battery box (mine was short and so I positioned the tray biased for the rear light, so the flange that locates under the battery box is 5mm short but this does not matter. When your happy drill through the battery box just to the side of the battery connection symbols, through the undertray and pass two bolts through (bottom B on image BOLTS1). Slowly tighten these and they will pull the undertray tight up to the rear fender - you may need 1" long bolts and cut them off after you have tightened them up. Replace the battery. At the other end, drill at the end of the fender where you cut it off and pass another two bolts through and tighten up (middle B on image BOLTS1).

Locate the circuit box from the original fender and relocate right at the back of the undertray drilling through from underneath, using two more bolts (top B on image BOLTS1).

Fit the indicators - I would recommend aftermarket flush mounted ones as the originals will point downwards and backwards due to the angle of the undertray where they relocate. I used the originals by making two  plastic spacers/washers beveled from 5mm to 1mm across the width, rotating these I could re- align the indicators straight (see image INDICATE1).

Finally drill the undertray right at the rear after bolting on the rear bodywork to pick up the two existing lugs - carefully! Fit the final two screws. I drilled the underneath of my rear light and filled the holes with clear glue. I then made a spacer that both angles the no. plate and brought it forward by 25mm- see image INDICATE1. The idea was to illuminate the plate from the rear light as you are now minus the little light that was in the old fender. It half works!

To finish it off I made a plate that has two sticky reflectors either side of the no plate ( any old car spare shop sells these) and fastened it on before the plate - this keeps it legal. 

You now have a sexy rear end! - See image REAREND. Incidentally my undertray was color painted, and I managed to fit it without a scratch - Its that easy if you are patient. My bike also has a rear hugger fitted and this does not interfere with the undertray even though you have put it on top of the old fender.

rearend.jpg      cut1.jpg      cut2.jpg       indicate1.jpg      bolts1.jpg

I have posted this to the FAQ section....

04/04/01 Replacement keys - Much thanks to Tony TonyP2020@aol.com for this information

There is now a Silca (make) key blank available for the Sv650. The number is SZ14RAP. Any shop which cuts key should be able to get hold of it. 

In the attachment the links are item 13. Before you start place something soft in between the back wheel and underside of bike I used a couple of old cushions and get hold of an assistant (I used my eldest lad!) Tools are 14mm and 17mm(?) sockets, spanners, extension bar for socket and ratchet and a small hammer to tap gentle on end of bolts if persuasion required and a big hammer if everything goes wrong!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Undo the bolts and nuts (items 14,9,11,16. 17mm and 14mm I think) these are Tight and do require a bit of effort. the nuts are self locking. Remove link from the left side. Get your assistant to LIFT the back end by the grab rail as this relieves the pressure on the link and the bolts will just gentle ease out. Remove other link and bolt fit new link by lining up holes by getting your assistant to lower the bike back end (this is why you have the cushions just in case it slips!) Once first link is on and bolts in place assistant gets the sack surplus to requirements fit other link and nuts and retighten and there you go 20 minutes tops! Hope it helps. Image

Links provided by James Holland Racing www.jhsracing.com 

Work is carried out at your own discretion and that SV650.org accepts no responsibility for any modification carried out. 

Hi John I like many others have asked for information on paint codes. I've tracked down what I believe are all the colours and year they were introduced. It may be worth adding this list to the FAQ's section to aid riders get the right hugger or belly pan. Regards Stu.

Is the GSXR 750 front end a straight bolt in? From what yrs? 

Pre-SRAD gsxr stuff goes right on, only requires changing the steering stem bearings from ball to roller. EZ. The hot racing setup: get a 98-99 GSXR600 front end. Its fully adjustable and as light as they get. Its also (arguably) too short, requires a custom upper triple clamp that allows the forks tubes to sit lower than they normally would. You'll also need to press in the SV (or pre-SRAD gsxr) steering stem into SRAD lower triple clamp. Add gold valves and it doesn't get any better than this. The downside is cost, its the most expensive front end out there, the wheels are expensive, and the upper triple will set you back a couple of bucks as well. 

For pre-SRAD stuff, get a 93?-94? GSXR 1100 front end (kayaba forks). These are the longest gsxr forks out there, allowing the most adjustability. The 750 Showa forks work too, but are 15(?)mm shorter. If I did it over again I woulda held out for a 1100 front end, more ride height adjustability. 

Does this require changing the rear shock as well to maintain balance between the front/ rear? 

Yes. If you stiffen up the front end w/o increasing the rear ride height you will find that the bike has way too much weight on the back of it. As you get moving quickly (100? mph or so...) the bike will start wobbling, then headshaking. Bad. Very bad. When I bought my bike it was stock, it was friday pm, and I was racing the next day. Added preload to the front forks to get the proper sag. It wobbled BAD. Dropped the front ride height, and it still wobbled. Played around in EVERY morning session (pissed off race control..) trying to get the bike to work, then I gave up and put it back to stock preload and ride height and it stopped wobbling.

Is there a tangible gain for the average street rider? 

No. If my SV were a street bike I'd put emulators (and springs) in the forks and a GSXR shock on the back. For about $400 you'd have a top notch suspension setup. The emulators are outstanding, I raced them for 3 years on my hawk and highly recommend them. They provide 90-95% of the benefit of a cartridge+gold valved front end, and I honestly believe they work better than a non-gold valved cartridge fork. Nope, I'm not sponsored by race-tech, I just think their products are outstanding...

-Mitch in MI Maximum Overdrive Racing: http://www.reish.net/maximumoverdriveracing  Sharkskinz / Street-n-Comp / M4 / Reish.Net / Service Honda

I did a "Do It Yourself" jobbie to remove the hideous hunk a crap on the back. First, you need some tin/stainless steel to make a metal template.

1. Print off the template and make sure it is to scale. By measuring the 20 mm by 20 mm. 

2. Bend the metal according to the next picture. Also, drill the four holes. NOTE: The center hole is not needed. RED These holes were used to bring the indicator wire into the "trunk" and connect were the stock wires connected. BLUE These holes are used to mount the license plate and Rsend. YELLOW  These holes are used to mount the homemade undertail to cover the gap left behind by the rear fender. This template is made to fit directly where the old fender fit.

3. I used the stock license plate holder. Them made two "Ears" to hold my aftermarket indicators. The Ears were made out of the same material for the undertail.

4. Step four... basically mount everything. Put the plastics back on... I forget the exact order. You took it apart, you can remember. Should look something like this:

As you can see, I cut a tire tube (just bigger than the template) to put between the undertail and the tail so give more of a "cushion" and prevent moisture getting into the "trunk". Also, I put heat shink tube to seal the wires. Also used rubber grommets to prevent the wire from rubbing and wearing away on the metal.

And the finished product...

Thanks,

Mitch

Updated 11/04/2005

Hey,

This is a modified version of the How to make a fender eliminator for the '03 SV by Mitch. The reason I decided to do this modification is because my M4 high-mount exhaust interfered with my right signal light. The light would not fit between my license plate and the canister.

Instead of mounting the ears on the Rsend, I decided to mount them on the template. Another hole needed to be drilled in the template for the ears. This is so that the ears have two bolts holding them on so they cannot pivot. An awl was used to make the holes big enough for the bolts.

The ears were then mounted onto the template with the outer holes.

The inner holes on the template and ears were widened with an awl to make the stock Suzuki bolts from the Rsend fit.

The Suzuki Rsend was then mounted onto the template atop the ears.

Mount your license plate onto the Rsend and you are complete.

What this modification ultimately does is move the indicators behind the license plate so they can be moved inwards and away from your high-mount canister. The only downfalls that I can see are the indicators are slightly covered by the license plate. Also, they are tucked quite close to the tail and may not be as visible as before. Another issue, the right indicator is hidden by your canister from the rear right. Something you can do to solve this problem, which I am doing, is buy the Clear Alternative’s integrated tail light.

Thanks,

Mitch

Fitting an adjustable clutch lever to the SV650 by Paul Baxendale

What you need

Clutch lever assembly from a Kawasaki GPz500 (EX500-A7)

Part No.: 46076A lever_assy_grip,clutch

Blanking plug

Part No.: 92066 Plug (or get a bag of assorted blanking grommets from any motor factors)

Tools

Cross head screwdriver, Socket set

How to do it

1. Remove bar end weight by undoing the screw in the end and sliding it off.

2. Remove handgrip.  It is glued, I found I could work it off carefully, but warming or using a solvent can help.

3. Disconnect Clutch cable by aligning the slots in the adjuster and freeing the cable and nipple from the lever.  Leave the rubber boot on the cable, it will re-fit onto the new assembly.

4. Disconnect clutch switch cable.

5. Remove clutch lever assembly by undoing the pinch bolt and sliding the assembly off the end of the bar.

6. The clutch switch is closed when the clutch is pulled in so you need to make a permanent short in the clutch switch cable or the engine won’t start.  I used a small strip of brass bent into a ‘U’ shape and pushed into the end of the connector.  Then tape up the connector to stop water damage and fasten it out of the way.

7. Refit the handgrip and bar end weight.

8. Fit new clutch lever assembly.  The new unit separates so it can be fitted with the handgrip in place.  You will want to position it so that the level points at a comfortable angle and is close up to the handgrip.  You may want to ‘relieve’ some of the plastic switch case to get a better angle.

9. The assembly has a threaded hole which is used for mounting a mirror, fit the blanking plug into this hole.

10. Reconnect the clutch cable and adjust the clutch cable as per the manual with the span adjuster set to the largest position (1).  Then set the span adjuster to get a comfortable reach.

Adjusting the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) on a 2003 - SV

Step-By–Step  Guide

**Before undertaking this modification, I strongly recommend that you read the instructions through from start to finish & have them to hand during the process**

You will need:

A length of fairly thin wire (multi-core like the stuff you get on the end of cheap jap speakers is what I found worked best)

A Size 25 Security Torx bit (part no 285-9488 from RSwww.com) photo

 1:  You will need to make your ‘dealer mode tool’…

Simply take a piece of wire about 3 inches long and strip back about 8mm of the insulating sheath (twist the cores together on multi-core cable).  Snip off the last 2-3mm with a pair of scissors or a wire cutter to leave a clean end.

2:  Undo the side panels under the saddle…And remove the saddle…

3:  Undo the tank retaining bolts…and prop up the tank

4:  Run the engine until at it’s normal operating temperature (most are around 85-90 degrees – I plump for 86!!)

5:  Check & adjust your idle speed…  It should be about 1200rpm.

6:  If (as above) the idle is too low, locate the idle adjust screw – on the left hand side of the bike in one of the triangle shapes in the chassis and adjust.  Turn clockwise to raise the idle speed and anti-clockwise to lower it…  Go in small movements and ‘blip’ the throttle after each adjustment and allow it to settle before trusting what the rev counter says!  photo

7:  Undo & remove the pillion seat.

8:  Locate the Dealer Mode Activation Connector

If you look into the tail unit from behind, on the left hand side you should see a bunch of a few wires & connectors behind a bit of plastic protruding from the undertray.

Follow this bit of plastic down towards the rider’s saddle and you should find another connector.  It’s rectangular, white plastic with 6 holes for connectors in and only 4 of them used.  It also has a black rubberised cover on it. photo photo photo 

9:  Turn off your ignition and put your ‘dealer mode tool’ in the two terminals that are next to each other.

]**WARNING** Do NOT short out the wire onto the chassis or any other part of the bike.  Do NOT connect either of the other two terminals to anything photo

10:  With the ‘tool’ still in the connector turn on your ignition.  The temperature display should have disappeared and now you will see a little line (like a minus sign), the letter c followed by two zeros.  If you have any other numbers shown in this display, see http://www.tl1000.com/faq/fi_codes.htm to diagnose your bike’s fault (it’s the dealer diagnostic display!) photo

11:  SLOWLY turn your throttle while looking at the little line on the dash…  It should move from the middle of the zeros to the top at about 1450rpm.  I will bet money on the fact that it won’t!!  It will probably move at about 3000rpm.

This is where the fuel injection starts injecting more fuel into the engine so when it’s set too high the bike will be jerky at low speeds!  (The line takes a second or two to move, hence turning the throttle slowly!) photo

12:  Turn off the engine and locate the Throttle Position Sensor…  It’s under the tank on the left hand side of the bike, just behind the air box. photo photo

13:  Using your size 25 Security Torx bit…

CAREFULLY undo the two torx bolts on the sensor (the ones at the top & bottom, not either side!). photo 

**WARNING** The bolts are very hard to get to (especially the lower one) and are made of a very fine, soft French cheese!!!!

I found it easiest to adjust if you don’t undo the top bolt very much as this way you can pivot it a bit better!

14:  Start the engine and turn the sensor anti-clockwise (I think) to decrease the sensor’s activation point.  You will need to make very tiny movements of the sensor!

You may find that the engine cuts out (or nearly cuts out).  If it does stop, try moving the sensor back in the opposite direction & thumbing the starter button again.  If this doesn’t help, try increasing your idle speed a little at a time until the engine starts & runs properly again!

15:  Keep making small adjustments, turning the throttle slowly while looking at the display to see when the line moves to the top of the display.  It should stay in the middle of the display whilst idle and move to the top at around 1450rpm.

16:  Once you’ve got the line to move at about 1450rpm, very slowly tighten up the bolts on the sensor again – it’s easiest to do the top one first.  It’s not a bad idea to hold the sensor steady as you tighten it, as if it moves, the sensor will activate at a different rpm!  Check that the line moves at the same revs after you tighten each bolt.

17:  Remove the ‘tool’ from the connector, replace the rubber cover, tuck back where you got it from and check that the temperature display returns on the dash!!

18:  Put the tank back down, replace your saddle, side panels and pillion seat and go and test!!!

I accept no responsibility for this modification or any unexpected effects you may encounter. Tim Coombes 15/7/04

How to Modify the Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) Modification on an SK3 and above SV

Step-By–Step  Guide

You will need

• 1 x 15k Ohm Resistor Available Here 

• Heat shrink tubing  available here – product number BF88V

• 2 x Miniature female spade terminals available here – product number  N22AN

• A length of thin multi-core wire (like the stuff you get on the end of cheap jap speakers)

• Electrical insulation tape

• Solder

• Soldering Iron

• Tiny jewellers screwdriver – probably 1.5mm wide!!

• Crimp tool

• Your bike’s tool kit (or allen keys)

1:  Make your TRE resistor connector!

First take the resistor, cut the ends down so it’s about an inch and a half long in total (too long & it will break under the tank!!).

Take a length of the wire, about two inches long, strip back the sheath at one end and twist the cores together.

Twist one end of the resistor onto the bare end of the wire and then solder.

Repeat this for the other side of the resistor!

Strip back the sheath at each end of what you have & crimp on one of the Miniature female spade connectors.

Take the heatshrink sleeving and cut it to length so that it covers the resistor and most of the cable (not the bare wire though!!) …  Heat to shrink!!

Fit another spade connector to the remaining bare wire.

2:  Undo the side panels under the saddle…And remove the saddle…

3:  Undo the tank retaining bolts…Lift the tank & prop up with the tank prop (surprisingly!!)

4:  Locate the 4-way connector (with only three wires in – blue, pink and black & white) that you will need to modify! photo

For Step 5 you might find it easier if you give yourself a little slack on the wires by undoing the retaining wire pictured below…photo

5:  You need to remove the pink and the black & white wires with their spade connector from inside the enclosure from the female (outer) side of the plastic enclosure – the wires have a male mini spade connector on them.  They are held in place with a tiny metal lug that sticks out from the spade, use the tiny jewelers screwdriver to prise them out (It’s bloody awkward but it can be done, trust me! Just persevere with it & be careful not to bend or break the spade connector!) photo photo

6:Take the TRE resistor ‘bit’ you have made & connect it to the bare ends of the two wires you have removed and tape round the naked metal with the electrical insulation tape.

It should look like this… photo

You can tidy the wires away nicely back where they came from, remembering to re-do the cable retaining wire you may have undone.

7:  Turn on your ignition, look at the rev counter & pull in the clutch…If the mod has been successful the revs should rise when the clutch is pulled in!

8:  Put the tank back down, replace your saddle and side panels and go and test!!!

I accept no responsibility for this modification or any unexpected effects you may encounter.  Please note: you may invalidate your warranty by undertaking this modification. Tim Coombes 15/7/04

How to fit a ROCA indicator conversion kit to a 03 onward SV650s by Clive Goodwin

As expected, the kit came without instructions, but I blagged my way through it... If I can do it, anyone can First of all, remove the little 'quarter panels' directly in front of each handle bar (one screw!) Remove each of the sidelights from its respective holder by rotating it a quarter turn.

Cut off the sidelights, leaving yourself about 2" (5 cm) of wire to play with... Prepare the sidelights by removing approximately 1.5 cms of insulating sheath from each of the cables - also remove each of the connectors from the strip supplied

Fit the connectors to the cables using a crimping tool.. Then the prepared sidelight parts have to be connected to connector blocks - to do this, break apart the two halves of the connector block (see below) then push each of the four newly attached connectors into the female halves of the block, you will hear a click when they're in position... 

When all the wires are connected, re-connect the male & female halves of the connector blocks..Then remove the 'white' bulbs & replace them with the orange bulbs (supplied with the pack) 

Remove the original front 'cators (including the backing plates). Locate the indicator blanking blocks, washers & screws (supplied with the kit) 

Fit the blanks into each of the holes

Sidelight indicators fitted

I bought a ABM handlebar conversion kit last October for my 2003 SV650S which I have recently mounted. I intend to share my experiences with you, with the help of some photo’s (of which some are a bit blurry...sorry). As I have a SV650S, some things will not be similar with the SV1000S, but I try to mention the differences in the steps below. People with the old model can also use this guide, but for example the rerouting of cables is different of course. On the old model the fairing also has to be modified.

Note: I’m not responsible for any damage to your bike because of the use of the steps below. Use of this fitting guide is at your own risk!

First part of the conversion is stripping the bike. First loosen the nuts on both ends of the upper triple tree (photo 1). As you can see in some of the other photo’s, I used a different working order which was not so smart. :)

Then loosen and remove the steering stem head nut (photo 1), beware of the washer underneath it. Keep the washer in a safe spot, because you will need it later. Carefully remove the triple tree. Now you arrive at a tricky part, because the ignition lock has to be removed from the triple tree. It’s mounted with two torx screws, with a little pin in the middle. Anti-theft stuff. You can a) buy a the right torx bit at a shop or b) remove the little pins out of the screws. You don’t need them again, except when you want to remount your stock triple tree, because new allen screws are part of the kit. At least, in my case with the ABM kit. When the screws are removed, the ignition lock can easily be removed.

Ok, next step. First, put a cloth on your fairing to make sure you don’t damage or scratch it. The most wise thing to do, is to drain the brake and clutch system before you start removing the clip-ons. First remove the bar end weights and then loosen al the parts that are mounted on the clip-ons (so you can slide them of easily). The left-hand grip can be reused, just carefully loosen it with a screw driver or something like that (photo 2). Remember to disconnect the wires on the clutch and throttle switch box! Then loosen the clip-ons, take them of the fork legs and slide of the switch boxes, clutch and brake cylinder.

Now there are two things you can do. You can mount the new triple tree or you can reroute the wiring and cables. Most wise would be to do the rerouting first. The clutch cable on the SV1000S will have to be replaced with a new and longer one, but unfortunately I can’t help you on that one, because I don’t have a hydraulic clutch. The throttle cables can be reused, but will have to rerouted from the left part of the frame to the right part of the frame. See the tips at the end of my post for another solution.

So it’s time to remove the side covers, riders seat, fuel tank and air box. For a detailed “How to topic” on removing the air box, I would like to refer to this topic on the SV1000 portalof BJAM and the Workshop manual. Before you remove the last air box part, put some clean cloth’s in the intake trumpets so no dirt can fall into it when removing the air box.

You need to open the throttle unit and loosen the throttle cables, in order to redirect them. As you (hopefully) can see in photo 3, the cables or now running from the left side of the bike to the right side and come out of the right hole in the frame. The red arrow indicates the mounting point and the red line indicates the stock route of the throttle cables. The green arrow indicates the new route of the throttle cables. The throttle cables should run on the other side of the front fork leg, and not the side that photo 3 shows. Small mistake... Look carefully at the small manual that comes with the kit, how the other cables should run.

When all the cables are rerouted, it’s time to begin the mounting stage of the new triple tree. First mount the ignition lock, with the spacers and allen screws from the kit, on the triple tree. Now use the washer from the kit and place it on the steering stem. If you forget this, you won’t be able to turn the front end!!! I experienced that myself... Now carefully mount the triple tree, it has a very tight fitting. You could use some grease to ease the fitting. When the triple tree is in place, take the original washer and steering stem head nut an remount them. Before tightning, check if the front end can be turned. Tighten the nut at 90-95 Nm. (photo 4)

Next step is the mounting of the handlebar, using the two risers and four allen screws that come with the kit. Before you place the handlebar, slide the clutch assembly on the handlebar in case of a SV650S!! The rest of the controls can be mounted later. Make sure the handlebar can’t fall out and is in a position you think is right, tightening of the risers should be done later (photo 5).

After the handlebar is in place, you can start remounting the brake cylinder, clutch switch box and throttle switch box again. It’s wise to already have mounted the new and longer clutch (on the SV1000S) and brake lines before you mount the brake and clutch assemblies. You can mount the brake fluid reservoir on the brake cylinder, by using the upper screw. I’ve made my own mounting bracket, but you can also bent the original bracket and use that.

To mount both switch boxes, little holes have to be drilled in the handlebar to keep them in place. Make sure you drill these holes in such a way, that the controls end up how you want them to be. Use a cloth as shown in the photo’s to avoid scratches to the fairing from aluminum flakes. After the controls are in place, you can remount the throttle cables to the throttle unit and reassemble the unit again. The throttle unit has to be turned 90 degrees forward compared to the stock position when you are using the stock throttle cables. Important: tighten all the controls and make sure the throttle runs smooth again!! Remount the left-hand grip (photo 6).

Now it’s time to adjust the riding position. Turn the front end to the left and right as far as you can and make sure none of the controls touches the fuel tank. If everything has enough clearance (also check the throttle and clutch cables) and the handlebar is in a comfortable riding position for you, tighten the risers. Otherwise, readjust the handlebar. Reconnect the lead wires of the switch boxes and start the bike. Now again turn the front to the left and right as far as possible and check if the idle of the engine rises or drops when doing this. If not, everything should be ok. If it does, check where you could have made a mistake. Also check if the throttle responses smooth and returns to it’s starting position.

Last thing that needs to be done is bleeding of the brakes and clutch. Again, I want to refer to a”how to topic” of the BJAM on the SV1000 portal as I can’t make it anymore clear then that. Another good link I ran into on this forum was this one. I’m sorry to say that I can’t say anything useful on bleeding the hydraulic clutch, but from what I’ve understood it’s the same as bleeding the brakes. So the links above should give you some help.

Ok, everything is in place. Check if you tightened all parts correctly. You can use some tie-wraps to mount the electrical wires to the handlebar. If you do this, make sure the wires aren’t being damaged when the front end is turned. It didn’t work for me, because the wires or too short for that.

Done! You can now take your bike for a test spin. Prepare yourself for an even worse view in the mirrors then before. Also a Racing (or touring if you like) windscreen can be mounted in order to redirect the airflow. Personally I didn’t experience turbulence, but the wind now directly flows on your throat, which sucks. Especially when the temperatures are dropping.

The riding position is so much more relaxed!!! I intend to go on holiday with my bike in 2005, and with the clip-ons it wouldn’t have been possible for me. So I’m really happy with this kit. Total cost of my ABM kit (triple tree, handlebar and weights) was: 198,97 euro/ 258,25 US dollars/ £139.27 pounds including shipping.

Some tips:

- The small German manual says you can use the original throttle cables (and clutch cable in case of a SV650S), but it’s also possible to use the ones of a Naked model. Because they are longer, you will encounter less stress on the cables when the front end is turned and you don’t have to reroute the throttle cables. DO NOT BUY the Naked throttle cables because they will not fit . The SV650S/SV1000S uses a different switch box and different throttle cables then the Naked SV’s. I think ABM just took the manual for the old model SV, on which the N and S DO have the same switch box, and just replaced the photo’s. The throttle cables of a DL1000/DL650 are a alternative if you want longer throttle cables. I haven’t seen that in person, but they are pretty long. Perhaps even too long.

- In case of a SV650S, consider replacing your clutch cable with the one of a Naked SV. I’m having trouble with the stock cable when the front end is fully turned left; it hits the fairing and the clutch play completely disappears. I bought the Naked cable and it has a shorter steel bend so it will not touch the triple tree and it’s longer so you can reroute it as the stock clutch cable. Do this switch when you’re rerouting the throttle cables, it saves you a lot of trouble.

- Take your time when doing this conversion! If you want to do to fast you will make small mistakes, as I unfortunately also experienced in the beginning.

- The workshop manual also contains a step-by-step manual for stripping the bike, so that can also be used when doing a handlebar conversion. When remounting other parts of the bike (brake hoses for example) use the torque settings mentioned in the manual.

- For those of you who are thinking of buying such a kit, check eBay Germany for that. Search with the word “Gabelbrücke” or “Superbikegabelbrücke” and use ‘SV’ to narrow your search. I’ll bet you will find a couple of sellers. The prices of a triple tree on eBay can vary from 140 to 175 euro’s, which are much lower then the UK/US prices that I have seen. Of course you’ll also need a handlebar (Lenker), bar end weights (Lenkerendstücke) and longer SS brake lines (Stahlflex bremsleitungssatz), but most sellers also have that stuff.

Hopefully you find this fitting guide useful as most of the kits come with German mounting instructions. If you have questions about this fitting guide, let me know. I’ll try to answer as good as possible.

Knaapie (the Netherlands)

jw_burnout@hotmail.com

Hi John,

Seems a bit weird that this is the first email I’ve sent you, considering I’ve been knocking around on the forum for a while now…

Following up on a thread in the forum where someone had come across an accident, I thought it might be useful to send you this handout which I was given when I attended a First Bike on Scene course with Lancashire Ambulance Service – perhaps you could upload it to the main site? It is only a summary of what is taught in greater detail on the course, but is informative nonetheless.

The course is well worth attending as it gives a lot of information and teaches a lot of skills that may literally save someone’s life. I’m certainly glad I went, but thankful I haven’t yet had to use any of the things I learned.

Hopefully see you at AR06! J

Cheers,

Andy (El Saxo)

Not the sort of thing we want to think about too much, but sadly the dark side of biking. This kind of information is invaluable should you ever be involved in this situation.

 

You need to cut the battery box i found this to not only be the plastic part but also the metal hinged part attached to the tank (but not part of the tank)

As said on that thread the shocker doesn't come with any bolts which is a shame as mine came with the bolt at the top of the shock which was perfect for fitting the bottom of the shock to the linkage, you will have to measure up how long you need the bolt and what width and then get one to do this as already mentioned in the thread the standard shock has a thread on it at the bottom...hence the need for the new bolt and nut.

To do this mod you need to:

-Mount the bike with an abba stand or similar, I not paddock stands as they seem a bit unstable to me and the rear swing arm needs to be free moving... but if its your only way then be careful, very careful and its going to be very hard...and you need a friend that's strong . basically don't do it.

-take off the back wheel (undo wheel nut, slide out the axle, slacken off chain adjusters and remove the chain from the back wheel and slide out the wheel)

-take off the side grills by the front seat and then take off the front seat.

-undo the shock bolt at the top of the shock (14mm...Mine was very solidly on and caused great difficulty...then I got the proper tools...and it was hard but manageable) then the linkage bolt then the bottom shock bolt.

-the swing arm I think is now completely free, lift it up and slide the shock out the bottom.

-now slide the zx10 shock in...and mark where you need to cut on the plastic battery box and cut, (I used a Dremmel)...make sure you move the battery out of the way first though...please :D...I had to cut a little of the left of the box (as sat on the bike) to allow me to be able to reach the screw for either compression or rebound damping (the one at the top)

-now undo the two Allen bolts at the front of the tank and the two hex bolts at the back of the tank and take it off...I just rested it on the bike to stop me having to disconnect everything.

-now take the zx10 shock and mark how much needs to be cut off and where...it was from the left hand side for me...you will see what i mean when you come to do it.

-now fit the zx10 shock and bolt up the linkage etc

-then put the tank back on...check the hinge doesn't foul the shock reservoir. Tighten up the bolts.

-put in a foam block under the battery to stop it resting on the shock reservoir. refit the battery...I had to get rid of the plastic shelf normally on top of the battery area to allow it to fit...don't so what I did and reattach the battery the wrong way (positive on negative and vice versa....3 blown fuses and allot of irritation that caused...)

-tighten everything and make sure everything so far is back on properly.

-set the rebound damping to middle on the shock and tinker with it as you ride to find what you like.

-depending on your weight set the compression damping. I'm 11.5 stone kitted up so backed it pretty much fully off as the spring is slightly to strong for my weight anyway.

-now put the back wheel on and chain etc. set the chain slack.

-now to set the sag...mine as it came was pretty much ok so yours might be.

-remove any load at all from the back suspension...measure from the axle to a static point above it...say the foot peg hanger. Note it down.

-now take the bike and let it down and stand it up as it would be if it were standing without the side stand...employ a friend or brother...if your like me...measure the same, axle to the static point...it should be less...

Now sit on the bike and measure the same again...

-these are your static and active sag measurements...look here for what you want etc and adjust preload etc accordingly..http://forum.svrider.com/index.php?topic=61655.0

Now put everything back on and your ready to go. Now all you need to do is get the front sorted if it's not already...

Stuff you need:
Allen key set,
Good wrench set
Foam block
Zx10 shock
Extra bolt.
A friend
A ruler/tape measure
Pen and paper
A Dremmel or good hacksaw and patience
Abba stand or similar.

Hope this helps and I hope I haven't forgotten anything.

Andrew Hewitt 30/6/06
 

I am going to best explain how i have de-restricted my bike which was fitted with a genuine Suzuki restriction kit.

WARNING - This is only for people that hold an unrestricted licence, if not you will be breaking the law.

Also this has been done to the best of my knowledge, whatever you do to your bike is your responsibility and if you are in any doubt with these instructions do not carry out the procedure.
PS. To the gurus, if there is any gaping problems with this please tell me so I can amend the instructions.

Step 1 - Airbox removal
Remove front seat, remove two bolts at the headstock that hold the fuel tank down, prop tank up with tool provided under rear seat, exposing the air box.


Disconnect both breather pipes from the air box, use long nose pliers to move the clips. With a firm tug of the air box, this should free the box exposing the carb below.

Step 2 - Fuel Feed & Throttle Position Sensor Disconnect & Idle Cable
I found that it was easier to remove various Fuel/Sensors/Idle Cables, so that access to the carb covers is easier. The idle adjust knob has to be unclipped from its holder on the left side of the bike.

Disconnect Fuel Feed


Disconnect Throttle Position Sensor


Step 3 - Slacken intake duct clamps / Carb removal
To gain easy access to the front & rear carb covers we need to remove the carbs from the engine intake ducts.

Rear carb - Between engine & Carb

Front carb - Between engine & Carb, Radiator needs to be moved to access clamp.


Once both the intake duct clamps have been slackened then pull the carbs up by the gold side bars and move to side.


Step 4 - (Optional) Front carb choke removal

To ease access to front carb cover i decided to remove the front carb choke plunger.


Step 5a - Part 1 of Removal of restriction kit
This section is the same for the front and rear carbs.
Be very careful not to let any of the spring fly off in this section

Remove the two screws holding the black cover on the carbs.



On removal of the carb cover you will see the diaphragm & piston assembly, remove this carefully so not to damage.



Step 5b - Part 2 of Removal of restriction kit
Remove the Jet needle from the piston, as you look into the end of the diaphragm & piston assembly you should see a small grey retainer. Using a long nose pliers, pull and remove. (Be careful because there is a very small spring and washer that will come out).

What the Jet needle set should look like.


Remove the diaphragm from the plastic piston, very carefully so not to damage. As you can see in the picture of the pistons without the diaphragms, the one on the top is the restrictor (with the small hole at the base) the bottom one is the original one which will give you full power.



Step 5c - Fit original kit
Put diaphragm onto original piston, noting that the diaphragm has to be the correct way around or it will not seat into the carb correctly.
Re-assemble the Jet needle as it was removed, needle first with washer on the top then spring then retainer.

Place the assembled unit back into the carb. Note that the needle has to be aligned with the small hole on the other side of the carb inlet.


Once in place place the carb cover in place, be careful to make sure it seats properly with the diaphragm, screw cover back on.

Step 6 - Put carb back onto engine
Follow in order Step 4 to Step 1, reversing all actions to reattach carbs to engine. Fit air box and make sure that all the breather pipes are attached correctly.

Thanks to Ricardo (TSM) for the 'How to'

By Derek Perry (25/10/2007)

Total cost: about $4
Total time: about 25 minutes

***This cheap and easy mod will save your radiator from rocks, dirt and insects.

Materials and tools required:

- Aluminum mesh gutter guard ($4 at Home Depot)
- tin snips or some other similar type of cutters
- 4mm Allen wrench
- pliers (maybe)

1. using a 4mm Allen wrench, remove the bolts holding the end brackets on either side.

2. measure and cut your wire mesh gutter guard to the required length (about 18" in total,
as this will allow you to fold about 1.5" at each end to wrap around behind each bracket).
You should also carefully remove the steel clips that are attached to the gutter guard.
Save these clips, because you can re-position them at the end to fasten your new shield
to the rad frame.

3. take a few minutes to properly fit and shape your new rad protector by hand.
Be careful of the sharp edges: obviously you can cut your hands, but you can
very easily scratch the paint on your bike, too.

4. once you've shaped it to fit suitably, bolt one of the side brackets.
With one bracket in place, take a few more minutes to properly
shape the other end before bolting on the 2nd bracket.

5. Once you've got both end brackets bolted in place, the fit should be
pretty good. At this point, mine was almost perfect, but not quite. That's
when I grabbed those small steel clips and fastened them in place to hold
my new shield along the bottom rail of the radiator frame. I used a pair of
pliers to bend the clips a little wider apart in order to get them in place, then
I carefully pinched them tight with the pliers once they were in place. Perfect
fit, and the clips are on very snug.

This item does not reside on SV650.org but here is a link