CURRENT POSTINGS  FOR  JULY  2000 

I am not a mecanic, but over twenty years of tinkering I've just about buggered everything up I can and have learnt by that! I was not prepared however for fitting an undertray. I stand to be corrected if anyone has a better way to do this. The man at M&P said "oh yes, all the instructions are included". This was one A4 sheet which virtually said, take off old fender and fit undertray.

The tray came with no pre drilled holes and it was left to me to decide where to mount it. At this point I would say, if you are going to try this, once you have started there is no going back. You have to cut the old fender up to save the battery holder. I have taken a picture of what was left of mine so you can see what I took off.

First take off the number plate, indicators, seats and take out the battery. Undo all the screws connecting the rear bodywork to the frame and remove. I did this in one piece leaving the two side pieces joined to the grey bit behind the grab rail. Now take off the old fender. There are lots of screws and bolts for this, you'll just have to search for them as I cant remember exactly where thay are now. Once off you will have to cut the battery holder off and re-fit it in its place. I bolted this back and steadied it with some cable ties around the front seat retaining bar. 

At the rear of the side panels there are two protruding lugs that the old fender screwed into. These need removing and fileing down behind for the undertray to fit snugly up to the panels. Now loosly re-fit the side pannels and offer up the undertray. To get a good fit I had to trim quite a bit here and there which I was not too pleased about and did this with a 'Dremmel' and sanding attachments. Make sure the undertray is central and mark where you can drill through the panel and undertray. Drill your holes through both panel and undertray and then remove the undertray. Take the old number plate bracket off the old fender and attach it to the undertray. Now offer up the undertray again to the bike and secure to the side panels with the plastic screws provided. 

To be safe I have also attached the back of the undertray to the top of the battery box. This both tensions the undertray and secures the battery box. Its then a case of tightening up everything. The recifier needs fitting and I just screwed this to the inside of the undertray. I have used screws in two points and cable ties at another three as it was the best way of attaching the panels to the tray. Anyway it fits and is solid and secure. There are bits for refitting the tool pack but they are useless. Also the tank prop now has no home! The numberplate then would not fit so I had to drill more holes, a new numberplate coming now. 

If anyone wants to have a go but wants to know more drop me an e-mail and I'll help if I can. If you want to fit indicators fit them when the side panels are off.

Undertray from rear side
Undertray from rear side 2
Undertray down
Old rear fender

Sprocket Specialists (http://www.sprocketspecialists.com/) sells Both front and rear, but only offers aluminum out back.

The prices are $48 (US) for the aluminum rear (another $10 if you want it hardened "Titan Tough") and $13 for the front. I purchased a 16t front for a long road trip and 
was very happy with it. The shipping was $4.

THE FOLLOWING IS BASED ON THE CHARTS ON THE SS WEBSITE, NOT ACTUAL EXPERIENCE!

It looks like the 91-93 GSF-400 (is that the Bandit?) shares the same rear, and the 98-99 GSXR 600 and 750 share the same front sprocket as the SV. (same S.S. part # as the SV). Possible cross-reference match there.

I thought you might want to pass some of this info along. yes, I do...

We just got back from our 2nd trip to Europe with our 2000 650SVS. Again, the bike proved to be a very worthwhile tourer, we put about 2800 miles on the clock in 14 days. (France, Switzerland- snow on the passes- pretty interesting on a motorcycle- Austria and Germany). The only problem experienced was an electrical failure on the autobahn in Germany. 

While cruising at about 75-80 mph, the bike stopped dead. There was no spark to the engine at all, but the lights were fine. Pulling off to the side of the road we found the 10 amp ignition circuit blown. We put a spare 10 amp fuse in and it blew immediately. Having seen previous postings regarding the problem (I think it was John Tapley who told me about this originally) with the seat holdown screw chaffing the wire loom on the left hand side, we checked this (I had looked at it previous to the trip 
also) and could not find anything apparent. After about a half and hour of looking, probing and scratching our head, we put another spare fuse in, 15 amp (last one) and it held. 

We subsequently took it to a Suzuki dealer near Koblenz who checked everything over, cleaned all the contacts, etc. etc. and could also not find anything wrong. (This dealer was excellent- he took us right in, spent about an hour with the bike, cleaned it and charged us nothing). The problem had obviously 'fixed itself', or had at least gone away for a while. 

It got us back to the UK with no more problems, but not being convinced that all was really well, I took another real close look at the wire bundle on the left hand side under the seat. I pulled the black tape away from the bundle where the wire passes against the tab that holds the seat hold down screw. (You have to cut the factory zip tie and pull the wire bundle down a bit away from the frame to do this). Upon closer inspection, I could see where one of the wires had a very small black mark where in had chaffed through and arced, shorting out against the metal tab for the seat screw.

I taped the bundle again with electrical tape, and then put a section of bicycle inner tube, cut to size and slit down the middle, around the bundle then taped it again to offer greater chafe protection. I then zip tied the wire bundle both forward and aft of the seat tab to the UPPER rail. This pulls the wire bundle completely away from the seat tab, as the wires  on my bike were resting against this tab. Even tho there appears to be no movement, there obviously is as mine chaffed through, just barely but 
enough to put us on the side of the autobahn with cars whizzing past at 100+. I don't want to do that again....

I really think Suzuki should put a service note out about this or something, as I would think just about every SV out there is a candidate for this to happen.

Thought this may be of interest, as these guys are very well known for their underseat systems for Triumphs (and have a great reputation for quality/performance).
They now list a nice looking system for the SV, no prices announced yet, though..........

http://www.bwracing.com/suzuki.html

The site goes from strength to strength - good stuff!

I'm writing because I have recently fitted a rear hugger to my 2000 SVS and am really pleased with the result. I wasn't sure which to go for and spent a long time looking at others fitted and stories posted here and elsewhere.

My "research" led me chose an NWS on and I went for the black gps version. It took under the ten days they said it would take (they said they were a bit pushed at the moment), I fitted it in 10 mins and thee were new allen bolts with protective washers provided, it fitted perfectly securing to points on the right and left and there was even scope to balance the fitting to properly centre it. The addition of free loctite was a nice touch.

There's a good finish and the black looks good with the yellow bike. I can say it was well worth the price - just over £70 including delivery.

I can't recommend it highly enough. I can send pics in a bit if you want them. yes please....

Does anyone have any experience yet in ordering sprockets & chains?

I've been trying to find aftermarket sprockets(steel) for my '99 SV650X and I haven't had much luck. I did call Sunstar Sprockets to see if they had some for our SV's. I talked to Lou in their R&D department and they  said they were way behind in developing sprockets for a number of models. He was kind enough to do some cross reference work for me and came up with the following:

46 tooth rear - part number S-33C20R (stock is 45 for the unfaired SV650X) 
47 tooth rear - part number S10D00R

These were from the Bandit 400 GSF he said. He couldn't come up with a front sprocket though.

The stock steel parts from Suzuki were quoted to me at $87 for the rear and $47 for the front!

I am going to try the 47 tooth as it may be useful in the real tight slow corners I drive on up in the N.C. mountains. I want to have more revs when way down in 2nd gear so I'm not bogging down so much. 

What chains has anyone used so far? I was going to use the D.I.D. XW-ring chain but it only comes with gold sideplates in the 525VM. I just want a plain one. By the way D.I.D. is advertising their new ZJ Rivet Connecting Link that requires their special tool to install. It is supposed to be superior to other rivet types and the clip style. They're at www.didchain.com.

I just want to tell everyone who ives in the vancouver to join the sv650 e-mail group. It's at sv650_bc@egroups.com. I hope u get this Matt (yellow sv650s form PM).

Here in Northern Ireland Insurance is expensive and hard to come by, however, joining the British Motorcyclists Federation saved a fortune. 

I got quotes for Comprehensive Insurance from Norwich Union and Carol Nash, both at £385, Bennetts refused to quote. As a BMF member, I purchased a policy from AXA through M/C Direct for £230, a saving of well over £150. 

I also purchased worldwide travel insurance for the whole family through the BMF for £70 for 12 months - next best quote was £120. Another £50 saved.

With all these great savings it must cost lots to join, I hear you say!! Nope - £17 for the year which includes a monthly magazine. Check out their web site at www.bmf.co.uk . You also help an organisation who is working hard for motorcyclists in the UK.

Also with regard to insurance is this from David (david.leopold@merton.oxford.ac.uk) (sorry David for the very late posting)....

On the question of insurance - after a year of not claiming and growing even older Hill Hammond wanted to put my insurance up another £15. Instead I saved £70 (and got RAC recovery) by phoning Carole Nash.

A couple of lines on some recent problems.

Vibration - Causes can vary but it might be worth checking the balance of the front wheel. A new tyre or a recent thump may could cause this.

Wiring loom - I recently had the rear body work off and noticed chaffing on the wiring loom. The loom runs along the left frame rail to the rear light. The chaffing occurs on the rearmost cross member and can be checked with the rear seat off. The crossmember supports the grab rail and has sharp edges. The loom is pushed against this sharp edge by the plastic understray.  My wiring wasn't damaged but the outer wrapping was worn through. 

Corrosion - I've just had the joy of drilling out the corroded brake pins on the rear brake caliper. I took the trouble of also fitting new stainless steel bleed nipples and a chrome Goodridge brakeline. I got the nipples from OEM (http://www.oem-uk.com/) size is mx7x1mm thread. They do some other nice goodies too 

Cooling fan & LED - After the SV ride out various people (inc me) had some coolant leaks.  I assumed at the time that this was down to excess coolant just venting off, it was after all a very hot day. This Sunday (another hot day) my over temp LED came on whilst sitting in traffic. A quick check confirmed that the radiator fan was doing bugger all. I switched the engine off and listened to the glugs and gurgles from the vent pipe (no coolant leak this time).

I tracked the fault down to a bad connection on a connector block. The block is located on the right side of the frame just above to coolant top-up tank and under the petrol tank. This connector connects the radiator heat switch (sited on the right side of the rad) to the wiring loom and then on to the fan. With the connector apart, I shorted out the two wires on the loom side and the fan sprang into life. A good clean up and all is now well. It just makes me wonder how long this has been faulty.

Out of interest the red LED is operated by a different sensor. There is a coolant pipe that connects the two banks of cylinders and is located in the neck of the V. On this pipe is an aluminium block and the sensor is  screwed into this. Best viewable from the right side. A single wire is attached to the sensor. To test the light, simply pull off the wire and earth it to the frame. 

So Suzuki have a belts and braces approach to overheating. The fan kicks in first, if that fails then the sensor above activates and lights the LED.

http://www.john.tapley.btinternet.co.uk

Just a short note saying how easy it is to lower the seat height by taking the cover off and cutting at least an inch off the four inch thick foam, then replacing the cover. I am short in the leg and this mod works superbly - I can see no reason why Suzuki made the seat with such a thick foam base anyway.

Not seen too many blue Y2K SV's with lower fairings, so here you are.......

Image 1

The photo was taken in the afternoon at a rider development course held last month, the circuit being just south of Brisbane, Australia. Emergency stops from 100km/h plus, counter-steer avoidence's (cardboard Volvo cutouts) and slalom cornering were some of the exercises we were tested on. I don't think there was one guy or girl there that didn't learn something. We also got to put it all to good use in the afternoon track session. If you've never done an advanced rider course, do yourself a favour and go give it a shot.

Being winter down here it took a while for the cold tires to sort themselves out but when the metz's got warmed up it was fun and games for all. A properly set up SV can hold it's own against a lot of the other "proper" sports bikes thrown at it... use that torque to good effect, and slipstream them on the straight's.

Image 1

Here is a movie of the SV650 with the TBR C-4 High Slip On.    More information at www.twobros.com

http://www.twobros.com/sv650/SVslipon/svSlipOn.mpg

I see you have been busy redesigning your web site -looks nice. I wanted to let you know about the HOW TO pages I made to help others boost the performance of their bikes. These pages tackle all the biggies like rejetting (for only $10!), carb needle shimming, adjusting the air/fuel screws and best of all performing a snorkelectomy. All of the pages have detailed pictures and instructions, and the procedures all done by yours truly on his own bike (US model) -so I know they work.

I put these pages together because I wanted to help others tackle jobs like these on their own AND make it as easy as possible. The links to the pages are as follows.

http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/howtoshim.html
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/airfuel.html
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html
http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_snorkel.html

Comments and a before and after sound file of a Renegade system available now in the Exhausts section. 

The Renegade F.A.Q. has been revised in places following recent feedback...please check it out... 

I had no problems with vibration until last week.. I was recently on a course down south and had my baby serviced during my stay, so I borrowed a friends blade to get to the course location. Now he had told me due to mismatched bar end weights and a couple of other things, that I would notice a little vibration (bear with me, getting back to SV in a mo). 

After the morning commute of 55 mile, my right hand had gone numb from it. That night I picked up my SV having had Goodridge front lines put on (brakes are much sharper I'm happy to report), and apart from the cost of the service (183.00 sterling) I found no problems. The ride back from the shop was only 23 miles, and I was as my missus would put it playing. On the way back to Manchester, via North Wales, my right hand went numb again. Weird I thought, maybe after the bashing on the Blade, my hand was more susceptible to vibration.

I think that the addition of the brake lines may have thrown the balance of the bars out, or something along those lines. I only really notice the problem after about 40 miles ( I covered over 1500 km last week on my bike alone). I don't want to lose my sharper brakes, so will put up with it. 

Of course the dealer could have left something loose, but I will have to check, as I am not sure of the top of my head what they should check on a major service, or where to start looking. 

Eric's original posting can be seen here.  These images will also be linked from the 'How to' section for information...

1) Seat attachment bolt removal 
2) Tank on the prop rod waiting for the air box removal 
3) Horn removed and draped over brake line out of the way 
4) Radiator and fan with bolts removed and pulled down 
5) Loosening rear carb intake manifold clamp
6) Carb assembly loose and ready 
7) Open end wrench with philips bit taped inplace 
8) Front carb with right angle tool on cover retaining screw 
9) Front carb with cover plate removed (looking up past radiator) 
10) Front carb with diaphragm half removed from the front of carb 
11) Needle, spring, retainer, and diaphragm removed. 
12) Front carb diaphragm, cover plate, needle and all the parts ready for reassemble 
13) Starting on rear carb with tool 

I am talking about dropping the forks through the yokes to quicken the steering. Has anyone done this on an SV, and by how much? I rode a 'blade the other day and the only thing I liked was the way it tipped into corners. I know it has a 16" front but i have heard of people doing this on other bikes. 

Any ideas, advice or experience? 

I am looking at 10mm to start, and it is booked in in a week at the dealer so I need to hear any thoughts on it by then. I will gladly post my results/experiences when I have it done but any guidance anyone can give before would be most welcome.

I also want to re-oil the forks after removing the oil in them. What weight should I use? I am 10.5 stone.

In addition to my earlier posting on Bike Alarms, please find below some pictures of the fitted article.

" A snug fit and added piece of mind".

Image01      Image02      Image03      Image04

I thought that I would add a short comment to the tales of woe regarding Bennetts Insurance. Before purchasing my SV650s I filled in their on-line quick quote for an insurance guide. Cannot quite remember the figures but the actual quote a week later was more than double. Bennetts comment was "It's only a guide" 50 % out is hardly any guide at all. Needless to say I went to Carole Nash. However, a friend who just passed his direct access, 24 years old, not ridden for 8 years, no -no claims discount- used a broker in Hemel Hempstead called Humbergrove 01442 268567. They do some amazing deals where the policy is based on engine size (cc) only. Their price was half that of the best alternative!

Shame I found out about them 4 weeks after insuring my SV. If this helps, let me know.

ALSO ON THE SUBJECT - Steve (swarburton@atms.co.uk)

Last year I paid upfront for 12 months on my credit card. After a month Bennets sent me a letter giving me 7 days to reply which I didn't so they cancelled my insurance without warning. I was riding uninsured for 4 days before their letter arrived to warn me.

Had they refunded my credit card - had the hell. They even had the nerve to tell me it would take around a two weeks to process.

Good news about insurance companies/brokers is also welcomed.....that's if there is any....

Here there are some good photos of my '99 SV-S. As you can see I took off the fairing and replaced it with an off-road lamp. I mounted up a new exhaust system and a better rearset.

Image 1      Image 2      Image 3      Image 4      Image 5      Image 6     

Vibrations sometimes comes from the frame being stressed to the engine mounts, one way to verify this is to loosen one or more bolts that holds the engine to the frame. If the frame moves away from the engine leaving a gap. This normaly could be the cause of the vibration. One solution is to fit Metal washers in between to fill the gap.

The other cause is aftermarket exhaust being mounted directly to the frame without rubber mountings.

(ps...I don't think I'll adopt your registration suggestion...thanks anyway!)

I'm sorry about the late notice but, there is a ride out in the Plymouth area on Sunday 9th July. 

It's called the Mega Ride and last year there were approx. 5000 bikes there! The organisers are expecting more this year and the ride is being led by Goldwings this year. I thought that if we had a good showing from the SV's, maybe we could get the chance to lead next year!!?? It starts at Lee Mill industrial estate at 10:30am. From there, on the A38 to Plymouth to the Hoe (Sea Front). All you need to take part is a pound, collected for charity. Lee Mill Ind Est is just off the A38, towards Plymouth from Exeter. It's about 30 or so miles from Exeter in 10 or so miles from Plymouth.

There will be stands, shows, etc at the Hoe, apparently!!  Hope to see you there.

I've posted on several lists trying to find others with cures for what I consider to be "excessive" vibration, but either it's not a wide spread problem or you've all had it with whingin' and snivellin' so I gave up!  I don't notice anything...

FIDO!
This is definitely a high frequency vibration, much higher than any vibration on my 900SS. It feels like a 4 cylinder "buzz". I've checked all bolts, nuts, screws, fasteners... nada... zip. Everything's tight as tree bark. Next is to check carb balance.

Sorry, Emma! I've no idea at all why a 90 degree twin should vibrate like that. (and why is there no character on the key-board for "degree"?) hmmm...good question..

First of all, as you surely know, your site is one of the greatest sites about the sv i could find anywhere. you mean one of the only....

well now here's the problem :-)

I saw a picture in your archives and I would desperately like to know whose bike it is and where he got his parts from. The pic is: ozzycustom2.jpg maybe you can give me his email adress or tell me where he bought his parts. Ozzie works with Jorge at Renegade down near Brands Hatch, UK...see the front page of this web for Renegade info..

And second of all , the drawing of the SV tuninsvt.jpg and tuningsv.jpg are these already reality or is it just a fantasy ? just drawings, see original posting.

I am just writing to agree with Emma Dighton. 

I would strongly not recommend Bennett's Insurance. I once had the misfortune of being insured with them and experienced nothing but incompetence. They ended up threatening to take me to court for £250 I did not owe them, but had to pay because of the constant addition of legal fees. I may as well have beaten my head against a brick wall for all the sense and help I got from them. 

Of course all insurance companies are thieves (£800 tpft for my SV650s because of one previous theft claim!) but Bennett's seem even worse than most - remember this is the company that wants to charge you more depending on what colour your bike is! It would be interesting for RiDE or one of the other magazines to do an expose of these companies. 

Whilst I wish to post people's experiences of service from insurance brokers please bear in mind that every person's situation and circumstances are different. All I aim to show by posting insurance comments is generalities, there are so many variables.  From personal experience when I was with Bennett's I had no problems but moved because Carole NAsh was cheaper and offered more. I am so far happy with Carole Nash (may be different if I need to claim!).

Look at that, In the last issue of "MOTO JOURNAL", they analysed every part of a 50 000km SV650N and their conclusion is that this bike is impressive. The paper is in french and as my technical vocabulary is poor it is difficult for me to translate... Anyway if U need some more data on this study, just ask I will try to do it....

Image 1

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