OCTOBER 1999

COMMENTS AND INFO

I finally took the SV apart this week to try and solve a problem it's had for a few months where the neutral light is on all the time regardless of gear. I originally
took it to Carnells (the waste-of-space dealer I bought it from) but after having the bike for three days they failed to sort it.

Anyway, after taking the fairing off I found the problem - the connectors in the large block connector on the left had side had corroded so badly that they were shorting out. Once I had cleaned these and sealed them up it was fine but if you have an SVS that you ride in all weathers it is worth giving it a good going over with WD40 something similar. The other block connectors were also starting to go so I guess the fairing isn't much use at keeping things dry. The unfaired version looks like it has them inside
the headlight so it should be OK. (now I know what I'll be doing at the weekend...)

I also had a look at the front plug as the machine had started to run a bit rough after its last service (good old carnells - guess where this bike aint going again!) only to find the rubber plug that covers the gap between the cylinder head and the plug cap had not been seated properly and the 'hole' was full of mud.... Cleaned that up and the bike is running as sweet as a nut.

The Dragon EVO tyres seem to be holding up quite well, I've done 1000 miles on them so far and the back is about 1/4 worn so it should be good for 3 - 3.5 K
miles (I got 3.8K out of the ME4s) and they are bloody brilliant! (as long as the pressures are spot on - 1 or 2 PSI makes a lot of difference to the feel).

I saw a message from Politis on your site where he thinks there are a lot of problems with the SV - I think the SV is a very reliable bike and it only seems to have a lot of problems as the owners have somewhere to air them. (Thanks Kev!). If you look at the number of messages about actual problems compared to the number of happy owners (remember these messages are from owners world-wide) then only a tiny proportion of owners have any troubles at all. I think that once Politis gets his machine he will stop worrying and start grinning!

Well said Jock.....remember as well that most of us who get on the internet and find sites like this one are active in supplying feedback and making comments. Before it was so easy to obtain and exchange information you only found out about minor and major problems via word of mouth or in the biking press, now we can all have our say and it must therefore seem like problem after problem with the SV.

The bike does have a couple of 'issues', the main suspected problems being the cam chain noise and this issue of water in the fuel (for what ever reason). Other issues like the front fork 'thud', soft front end and quietness of the exhaust note are there by design and as long as they are known about you can make a judgement on whether you wish to buy the bike in the first place (or spend money subsequently upgrading parts). I, and many other owners, don't regret buying the SV for one minute.

Oh, and lastly, just remember that the purchase price of the SV is not high anyway, you have to expect that some cost cutting was necessary in the design. The actual quality of bike, the styling, performance and handling are, for the cost of the bike, very good indeed. Sales of the SV over the next few years will reflect this.

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That's a good note on which to round off Octobers postings. This page will be archived when the first of Novembers postings are made available. (And I'm going to sort the hit counter out too.....it gets to about 50-51,000 hits and then seems to go back to about 47,000 hits...weird? It's done it a few times now....I think the real figure should be about 62,000). I've also made a start on the FAQ section but it's slow going..

After the two posts today regarding water in the fuel, if I wasn't a firm believer in synchronicity, I am now. Only yesterday my dealer came to pick up my SV650SY as I was unable to drive it to the shop due to it refusing to rev above 4000rpm. The bike would idle ok, and both outlet pipes were warm so it was running on both cylinders, but it would make absolutely no power.

The dealer reckoned they hadn't had problems of this nature with an SV before, but he asked if I'd used a petrol can or had lifted the tank. The latter suggests they are aware of possible pipe kinking as described in an earlier post here. He agreed with me that it was almost certainly a carburation problem, either water in the carbs or a blockage in one of the jets.

The bike first developed a problem after a ride in very heavy rain, and began to hesitate under hard acceleration (4-6krpm). The problem disappeared after a hard ride at higher than normal revs - I was hoping it would clear the jets - but came back soon after. And then after a weekend of sitting in the rain, the poor girl was incapable of normal running.

I could have drained the carbs and changed the plugs myself, but the bike's under warranty and why not have it done for free? Unfortunately, I expect the bike will be at the dealers for a few days now while they find time to look at it :(

That's bad news Paul but thanks for letting us know, it all paints a picture and begins to piece together this particluar issue. Please let us know what the dealer finds, in your case it would seem like kinked pipes were not to blame and maybe there is an issue with the fuel filler seal?

I have an SV with a twin aftermarket exhaust system that exits by the number plate. I've had my SV for 3 days now. The system is made by Kenz Sports. (images to follow in a few weeks....)

See previous posting requesting this information...

Still, you can rest easy: such a system exists. Btw, I have no idea how much difference it makes since I bought the bike like it.

If you especially need more information on this Peter has offered to kindly try to contact the shop where he got the bike to find out more about the makers....let him know...

Image 1      Image 2

Well I just passed the endorsement test and am really itching to get my first bike. As you can tell I am very interested in the SV, but I'm a bit concerned about it
being too big for my first bike ever. I took an all weekend class with the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, but before that I had no riding experience.

The reason I'm posting this is to get some opinions. Please let me know what you think (positive or negative). Oh yeah, by the way I am about 140 pounds at about
5'7".....don't know if that matters much or not. Thanks for your opinions.

As always take a test ride if possible but I don't think it will be too big either physically or power wise. It has been said numerous times but there's a low seat height, smooth power delivery and great handling, it's cheap and looks great. Try one. (no, I do not work for Suzuki..).

Hi, great site. I live in Canada (got an"s" model) and race in the U.S. Some of my mods include Race-tech front springs and emulator valves, Datona steering stabilizer, Fox shock for a GSXR 750, M4 pipe, Factory jet kit, 520 chain conversion.

I managed to come to about 1 second slower lap times than I did on my CBR600 last year.

Somebody on your page was asking about levers. After a misshap at the track I found a GSXR600 brake lever fits and I actually perfer it to stock.

These mods I've done will make for an excellent street ride. I know as I also ride it on the road.

Does anybody like torque? DR350 pistons with a little work on the top(valve clearance) will give you approx. 13.5 to 1 comp. and 90ft/lbs of torque to a stock motor
Have fun with your bikes. I cetainly have fun with mine.

After spending some months reading www.sv650.org, and other similar sites looking for information for this litle beauty, the waiting is over. I'll have my knew yellow sv650S after some hours. I hope I don't find all the problems that everyone is talking about...

I had a cb400sf (honda) and  I was very happy with the top quality and smoothness of the bike. But if you want to travel with 180+ km/hour the bike is a litle small for that. I have been thinking of cdr600f4 but is way to expensive for me. Then I has looking for a used gsxr600, and then I first saw the wild yellow sv. That was it. I was in love...

Anyway I'm a little woried about the break-in of the bike. You must be gentle and hard on the same time. Suzuki's manual say that you must vary the rpm's but I think is hard to do so if you should stay under 5000rpm's. Anyway everyone thanks for all the info about sv650S and keep on doing a great job.

Don't worry, just ride and don't go mad, revving the engine high, you can rev it hard but keep it under 5-6000rpm as the manual says. If you worry about your riding style then your awareness of what's going on around you will suffer.

This isn't all that rare. It even happens to aircraft on a fairly regular basis simply due to vibration. This crack probably started as an extremely small (perhaps inperceptable) crack at the factory and just grew by itself.

If you don't want the crack to grow, take a small drill bit (about 1/16" or 1.5mm) and drill a hole at the end of the crack. Also, borrow your wife's / girlfriend's fingernail polish (I do all the time, don't you?) and cover paint a light layer over the rest of the crack. It won't remove the crack but it will keep it from growing.

I have found your webb site very informative, keep up the good work, I've attached a few photos of my SVS with the M&P hugger and under tail cover fitted.

mage 1    Image 2     Image 3      Image 4  

I am an American living in Alice Springs, Australia. I have the ONLY SV650S in town. And supposedly 1 of 6 1999 red SV650's in all of Australia. I consider myself fortunate because north and south of town are NO SPEED LIMITS. Yee ha!

The attached photo shows the sign to prove it.

I love this bike! The only mod is a full race Yoshimura RS-3 exhaust, pipe and can. It looks great and sounds incredible! It scares dogs, cats, people, and other bikes! I really recommend it.

Your website was the focal point of my decision on buying my SV, and I appreciate your hard work and effort. (thank you) Take care, and ride safe...

I picked this up from the May 1999 Cycle World. The SV650 was used. I'm not sure if the SVS would be too much different.

1/4 mi. 11.85 sec. @ 110.17mph.

0-30 mph 1.34 sec.
0-60 mph 3.20 sec.
0-90 mph 6.79 sec.
0-100 mph 8.76 sec.

40-60 mph 3.27 sec.
60-80 mph 3.90 sec.

Measured top speed 128 mph

The faired S model should be slightly decreased acceleration and high top speed but it would depend on the conditions and circumstances in which the tests were performed.

I was interested in finding a company that makes a fender eliminator, or trick kit, for the SV. After market parts for the bike, at least in the U.S. have been all but nonexistent.

Also, I have heard that the bikini fairing on a Buell will mount directly onto the SV. If anyone has done this please contact me and let me know how its done.

Also some bad news (at least for buyers in the US)- the 2000 SV is identical in every respect to the 99'. Suzuki has not come out with a fairing version for the US model, nor have they introduced any new colors. Canadians may need to put deposits on their bikes to keep them from heading south of the border!

This from a request to hindle about exhaust systems.  The tourqe chart and photos are promised once they become available.

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We have just completed a 2 in 1 full stainless steel system for the SV650. They are in production and will be ready for resale at the end of the month. The suggested retail price has not been determined as of yet however I can assure you that they will be below the price of other aftermarket exhaust companies.

In response to Dave's posting (20/10/99) regarding the problem of water getting into the fuel tank, I think there may be another possible reason than a 'missing seal'.

The hole tht he correctly identifies as a drain hole exits the back of the tank with a small rubber hose, then tees together with another hose that comes from the carb's, before running to the bottom of the bike to drain any excess water. (All over your back tyre, but that's another issue...) Suzuki, in their wisdom, have given plenty of slack in this tube so that it doesn't pull tight when you hinge the tank up. However, there is so much hose that when you hinge the tank back down again, the hose tends to kink and it only takes a small constriction to cause it to block up with crap.

What happens then is that every time you wash the bike (or it rains), the area fills up with water and as soon as you start to open the filler cap a cupful of water gets dropped in the tank. nice...

I had the same problem with my 600 Bandit, so I checked especially when I got my SV (2000 'S' model, blue - fantastic bike by the way). What I did was to trim a good 25mm off the tube from the tank drain. It is still OK when the tank hinges, but tends (hopefully) not to kink. I also made slight changes to the routing of the pipes to straighten them out, it really is just a case of popping the tank up, having a look and using a sharp knife and common sense.

By the way, excellent web site Kevin, keep up the good work.

I had to have my dealer come and pick up my bike, because it wouldn't run properly. It started just fine, but after half-a-minute, it stalled. I tried to start again, but it just wouldn't run over 1000rmps and stalled all the time. The bike had been standing in the rain on it's sidestand for about one day (I was not home and forgot to put the
raincover on).

The dealer found water in the gas, emptied the gastank and drained the carbs. Great, I thought until they presented me a bill for about $100 (800 NOK) for the job. I refused to pay of course, and the manager agreed it was a bit rude to charge me for this, but I had to talk to the repairs manager next week to get the bill invalidated.

What should I use as arguments to make the repairs manager back off? He is problaly going to blame me for using a steamer, used bad gas, not closing the cap problerly, all which I did not!! I have never used a steamer on it, the cap was closed and I had been running that tank of gas for over 100km with no similar problems, so it had to be the rain.

If the manager agreed that it was not acceptable to charge you for doing the work then get the menager to deal with the repairs manager (I am assuming the repairs manager works to the manager??). Insist that you have not done any of the things you say above and other people *have* experienced the same problem. Direct them to this site or print out the postings this month that talk about water in the tank. Alternatively just refuse to pay unless they can prove you caused the fault and it should not be covered by warranty.

For a slightly differing view see Neils posting directly above this one.

Who is to blame for this? The bike should be able to be in the rain for one day (even 10 in my opinion), (it should be able to stand everyday in the rain!!) the dealer should not have to use two hours of their time due to a bad gas-cap design, so obviously it is Suzukis fault, isn't is??? YES

Another piece of the story is that when I went to pick up the bike, it wouldn't run properly (unable to rev past 5000 rpms). The shop manager went bollocks, cursed the mechanic (this was a saturday afternoon), changed the front spark plug and then my bike was as good as new!!!!!

Stick with it and don't pay for a fault which looks to me very much like a design issue. No doubt we will hear more about this. See related 'water' postings below.

Great site, I have been reading it religiously since June, when I got my red SV650X. It is my first bike and I couldn't ask for a more exciting piece of machinery. I love it.

Just to let you know, I have experienced first hand that the SV does crash well. It really couldn't have been more minor.

I hit some gravel in a turn and had to lay it down on it's left side in the grass. After bending my toe shifter back and putting my turn signal back together, I needed to buy new mirrors ($25), touch up paint ($45), and a new clutch lever ($15).  Not bad for a quick lesson in handling.

By the way the clutch lever was a standard suzuki part, not SV specific.

Well, now I have two questions if you all would be so kind to help.

1) I was changing my oil after 4000 miles and decided to put a new filter on since I was going to a synthetic blend. Because of the poor design of my filter wrench, I put about 3 small dents in the filter. The deepest one maybe 3 or 4mm. Oh and the manual says two turns after the gasket makes contact. Well I could barely get it 1 and 3/4 turns out of it. Should I be worried about these little dents?

2) I live in St. Louis, MO and the winters are relatively short so I was going to try to stabilize the fuel and just try to run the bike about once a month over 4 months does anyone see a problem with that? (nope, just make sure your battery is charged, they can drain, especially if you have an alarm that pulls on it)

Thanks for any answers and keep up the great work on the site, you bring happiness to many peoples lifes. (As the song goes.....If you're happy and you know it shout "I AM"...)

I've have 1100 km on my SV and I never dropped it.

Yesterday I noticed that the plastic protector above the front tire (I don't know the right english word for it) (mudguard) was cracked.

The crack start from the bolt near the chuck and goes for about 3 inches.

Once again I've been gentle with my bike and I think that I might be a weakness on the bike...

Did it happen to anybody?

Has anybody read MCM dated 13/10/99 ? Suzuki has re-called all models of the almighty HAYABUSSA to have CAM CHAIN TENSIONER'S replaced!!!

Perhaps the SV is next?

Just a thought. Cheers for now :-)

Hi there

From looking at your page, plus December's Superbike magazine - I see that France and Italy have an SV650 racing series.

Can all us Brits who are SV650 owners/fans, contact Suzuki racing - wherever they maybe - and try and convince them to run a similar series in Britain. I, for one, would love to see it - as single make racing makes for "proper" racing - the skill of the rider ascertains the winner!!

Let me know what you think!

I will be contacting you again when my husband has sorted my SV650 with the results of end can and fixing etc. Only just run in, so haven't had a real chance to sort it all out yet. Roll on next summer!!!!

Hi this is me, Geoff Kelly, and my SV650S.

Image 1   Image 2   Image 3    Image 4   Image 5

I just spent the last hour pouring over the archives looking for the info that was posted regarding the application of a Buell fairing to the SV. What model fits?

I'm desperate - jsut ran into some extra $$ and want to get this piece before the cold New England winds drive me inside for the year. Still a great site.

Enclosed is a first look at a new 1/4 fairing and rear cowl offered by Targa for us disadvantaged yanks with naked bikes. Still doesn't look as good as your version.(true!)

************* Email from Targa.....

Thanks for asking about our new SV650 accessories. I will attach a photo of the 1/4 Fairing and two of the Solo Seat Cowl. The Fairings will begin shipping early next week and are $299.95 . The Seat Cowls will be released in approx. 3 weeks at $171.95. Note the Seat Cowl may be used with or without you stock grab rail and comes with an optional pad.

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Here are the images.... Image 1      Image 2      Image 3

I just came across your site and congratulate you on it. Job well done! I'm located in TN and will be trading my Bandit 400 in on an SV as soon as a blue one arrives. I'm VERY anxious to get it. I sure wish they were bringing the faired model in to the USA.

Does anyone out there know who makes an aftermarket exhaust that exits on both sides of the license plate like the Ducati? Also, if such an exhaust exists, does anyone have any experience with the resulting difference in performance?

Thanks alot, I'll be visiting your site regularly from now on.

I am considering buying either an SV650S or a CBR400RR/RVF400, and would like to know which would be faster? I am unable to find any proper performance data for the SV, I sent you a mail a couple of months back and you gave me the figures that are from MCN. They quote 13s 1/4 Mile and approx. 130mph, but I don't think they actually tested the bike and that these figures are just estimates.

You would think because the SV has approx. 10bhp more than the 400's and alot more torque it should be faster accelerating (probably a slightly lower top end because or the half fairing). The CBR & RVF have 1/4 mile times of 12.5 seconds, and even a old Ducati 750ss with less power & more weight is faster?

Do you know of any proper performance figures for the SV650, it has been out long enough now for someone to test it and it is a popular bike so what's the story there?

Also do you think an SV would be suitable for a daily urban (Dublin) trek to work and what is the long distance comfort like, (I will be travelling approx. 150 miles once a month to visit my hometown). I must also congratulate you on an excellent website, the best bike site by yonks!!!!!

I agree with you...there is a lack of trustworthy and up to date performance figures, believe me, if someone sent me the data I'd post it for all, I just haven't seen any...

As for the other questions, yes, I think the SV would be fine for your commute and I found it OK when I#ve ridden mine for such distances, I'm ready to get off when I need to fill the tank up but it's no Pan European and I always remember that.....

UPDATE - see posting from 27/10/99

Just to let you know i passed me test a week ago and got the SV. 245mls so far we are bonding well <G> yep a YK2 blue for £4300 very happy with that!

See Gazza's year 2000 SVS here.. Image 1

All i can say is i made the right choice with the help of your site that i have been visiting for months I think this machine has got a lot in store for me when its run in.

Well, i do appreciate all your hard work and thanks for helping me make a good decision on a first Bike. (glad to help) and im up for the meet if it takes place ok.

Well, I don't see any reason why we can't organise something for Spring 2000 here in the UK so I'll see you there (where ever 'there' is going to be!).

I picked up my red SV650s last week, and I have so far clocked up 900km. I just love the sound of it with the Two Brothers exhaust. I have taken over 30 high-res (1280x960) photos of my bike around various places in Auckland and posted them on my web site.

I know I was supposed to keep it under 5000rpm for the first 800km, but when your trying to keep up with a guy ridding hard on a TL1000S when we went for a trip down the coast, I guess 500km of ridding in will have to do.

It just started summer here, so it is a great time to get this bike. Saw many other riders on our trip down the coast on Sunday. Everywhere I ride and park this bike, it turns peoples heads and draws admiring comments from passers by.

Great Bike, Great Bike, Great Bike. But then I am probably talking to the already converted. Oh yes indeed......

Hello all, I said i'd let you all know what the power surge thing was. Well, beleive it or not, it wasn't a power surge but quite the opposite, powerloss.

It was water in the fuel tank! If you take a look at your petrol caps you'll notice there isn't a seal where outercap (bit with the bolts in) meets the tank, so basically, when it pisses down or you wash your bike, water gets in to the space underneath. There is a drainage hole there, I think thats what it is, but when the water build up is to great and the bikes on its side stand, which it has to be, to get petrol into the tank!, water will eventually get in there.

So there you go!

Now I know it says don't get this bit wet when washing your bike, but what about when it rains? Don't use your bike! I think not!

COME ON SUZUKI,

how much can a rubber seal like Honda's cost, Bearing in mind that this fault nearly got me killed, overtaking a car and the water/fuel mix made the engine lose power mid manouver.

If anyone makes their own seal then we'd all like to know how you did it and what you used.....that's if a seal will fit...

Still, I love the bike, and i'd recommend anyone to get the sv, But customer services shall be hearing from me because I think it's a design fault.

Customer Services? What customer services? If you have an address or online contact info please let me know. When you get in touch with them ask about the rumoured cam chain tensioner recall as well!!

On another note, but fuel related, I am starting to begin to smell petrol more and more.The smell is not getting any stronger but I smell it more often, especially after a ride out and I've parked up. There's no sign of a leak and fuel consumption has remained around the same level...any idea's?

hi ! i was wondering when the sv650s is going to be coming out? (to the showroom floor) i know the sv650 has . I was also wondering what the specs were about the sv650s and sv650 are. Iwent to the specs on you homepage but it does not tell me anything about either roll on at 60 - 80 or how fast it gets to 0-60 .

i would be grateful if you sent me some information on this .

If you have SV and SVS specs already available, including roll-on times and standing starts etc, then please let me have it and I'll replace into the Specs section.

Well, after 1 week of buying my SV, I dropped it and need replacement handlebars.

Does anyone know of a place thats stocks bars for an unfaired SV? This is fairly urgent as right handers are a bit frightning.

UPDATE - See Jim's posting here..

Sorry if this has already been answered elsewhere - I didn't see it!

Does anybody know what, if any, Suzuki levers fit the SV 650? I was thinking of fitting some "decorative" (i.e. coloured anodised ones) but there aren't any SV specific ones listed yet as far as I can see.

I assume they are a "standard" part from the Suzi parts bin, though, so I wondered if anybody knew which other models have the same levers?

Thanks in advance,

I think there have been postings on this but I couldn't see them either.....anyone help (again!!)..

UPDATE 20/10/99 - Thanks to Nick (nick_hall@europe.adaptec.com) for this reply..

If my memory serves me correctly, I remember some guy from Europe (I think Holland or Denmark) stating he had an SV that fell off the stand, and the clutch lever went in the fall. Calling into a Suzuki dealer, one of the mechanics recognised the levers as the same as a 600 Bandit. Can't remember if this was on the sv650.org site or not.....

Hope it helps.

UPDATE 20/10/99 - Also thanks to Roy (roybach@btinternet.com) who echo's what Nick has said above......

I can confirm that a Bandit clutch lever can be used as a replacement on the SV (I know as I've done it), don't know about the other levers.

Thanks for the site; I was thrilled to see one. I have just placed a deposit on a new 2000 which I won't receive until March (which is ok since winter here - Wisconsin, USA - is too cold and icy for riding anyway).

For maintenance both at home and on road trips, I prefer to use a center stand. Does anyone know if one is or is coming available?

I had been holding on to my 83 GR650 Tempter for years waiting for Suzi to come out with the SV.

I don't think Suzuki have any plans for a centre stand, obviously, if anyone knows different...

I've just fitted a fender extender and I thought that you might like a quick write up of the process. The only remaining question is "Why don't the manufacturers make the things a sensible size in the first place?" (good question.......I dunno!!)

Fitting a fender extender to a Suzuki SV650

This one came from Pyramid Plastics http://www.pyramid-plastics.co.uk/

1: Remove the mud guard from the bike.

Prise out the center of the clip that holds the speedo cable to the top of the mud guard, the clip should then come free. Why this clip is necessary is a mystery, Suzuki could have simply brought the cable up the brake hose, across the splitter and up the other hose, but there you go.

Undo the four 8mm bolts through the forks, when you do so, two pieces of threaded metal will fall out. Pull the mud guard out towards the front of the bike.

Wash the mud guard in warm soapy water and then rinse and let it dry. This is so that the foam sticky pads will stick. Try and avoid getting the two pieces of foam that fit around the fork legs wet.

2: Stick the extender.

The extender is supplied with four short self tapping screws. It has three strips of double sided sticky foam. The idea is to stick the extender in place, and then drill four holes to accept the screws.

The difficult part is that the foam pads are a little thick, and touch the fender before it's really in place. The note on the packing is right, when it says that the foam pads have a contact adhesive on them and when the pads touch, they stick immediately.

What I should have done (isn't hindsight wonderful :-) is to drill a couple of holes in the tops of the fingers that fit inside the fender, tie a piece of string through them tightly enough to pull the fingers together half an inch, place the extender correctly so that the center sticky pad sticks, and then undo the string so that the fingers spring out and stick.

3: Fix the screws.

The instructions say to keep the screws away from the widest part of the tyre, what I think they mean is to keep the screws away from the center of the tread, because that is where there is least clearance between the tyre and the mud guard.

They say to drill four pilot holes through both mud guard and extender of 3/32 inch diameter. This equates to 2.38mm, I guess 2.5mm will be close enough, but don't use 3mm, as there will not be enough plastic left for the screws to bite into. You will probably get away with a 2mm hole in the extender, but then you will then have to drill a 3mm clearance hole in the mud guard, as the mud guard is rather stiffer than the extender and may split. Me? I really do have a 3/32 inch drill bit.

Drill two holes towards the ends of the fingers and two towards the edges of the mud guard and fit the screws.

I don't know if the screws are stainless or not, but in an attempt to stop them rusting, I put a blob of epoxy resin on the insides. I want to put a blob of paint on the outsides as well, I'll get one of those touch up tubes from Halfords. Does anyone know the best colour match for the 1999 blue?

4: Replace the mud guard.

Slide the mud guard back in. When you replace the two pieces of  threaded metal, there is an arrow stamped on them. This must point forwards, as they are not quite symetrical. Do up the screws hand tight until all four are in, and then give them a final tighten. They seem  to be chrome plated, but you might want to put a little grease or   copper-slip on the ends of the threads to reduce the chances of them rusting and siezing up in the future.

Reattach the speedo cable.

Thought I would write a little note to say how good I thought your site was. 5 weeks ago I bought a second hand SV650S in Black, something of a rare thing I am lead to believe. The previous rider must have been a few cans short of a six pack, as he traded it in after only 900 miles. So I managed to pick up a newly run in SV650S only 4 months old for just under 4 grand. It is my first bike after passing my test and I am very very happy with it, (apart from a possible clutch/gear problem I may be developing).

I ride with a friend who has a ZX7 R Ninja and after only 5 weeks riding I am starting keep up with him through some of the corners, but on the straight's he leaves me for dust.

I do have a question, How do you pull wheelies of the SV650S, my mate tries to tell me how to do them but he is used to riding fast and high reving 4's. Is there a technique you need to learn for small twins ???

I will be visiting your sight often, to keep up to date with the latest postings.   One of the best Dedicated Bike sights I have seen. (thanks..)

To find out how to wheelie see this previous posting from July '99

Check out http://www.hevanet.com/lavrgs/USALOC1.htm for a pic of the SV650 powered Laverda Lynx. If they can get it in for 8k or less I'll be very very interested in buying one--Imagine an SV650 that has really good suspension and brakes right out of the box.

The bit about 'factory jet kit' was in the e-mail I'd got from Rob (SBWRW1@aol.com) who had replied to my original posting asking for advice / info. He didn't elucidate in his message (it can be tricky shifting the stains later), but I'd assume he's either referring to a Dynojet kit (MPS now do them for the SV for £64.99) or it could be something called a Factory Pro jet kit, which another respondent referred to. It's a new one on me, could be a US product.

Incidentally, this other geezer says that the dyno graph for the M4 exhaust (with Factory Pro jet kit) looks a lot smoother than that for a Two Bros exhaust (with Dynojet). The graph for the M4 is attached. Incidentally, the M4 retails at $550 or $650, depending on whether or not you want an aluminium or carbon system. The makers site is http://m4exhaust.com/pages/suzuki.html

View dyno graph

It seems nobody is very keen to cut up a perfectly good stainless steel system just to fit an endcan.

Keep it up!

Also with regard to the jet kit, this from Tommy (tomctx@email.msn.com)...

I'm not Richard, but the Factory jet kit is a brand name(like Dynojet).

Great site! I appreciate all of your hard work. I just picked up my new blue Y2k SV650 this morning. I don't have much to say about except that it handles fine in the rain. I am in Central Florida and we were getting some pretty good showers from Hurricane Irene.

Hopefully it will go east and I can go riding this weekend!

Everyone.....try to include your name in emails please...

Suzuki US has finally updated their site http://www.suzukicycles.com/sr-20/sportstreet/fs_sv650.htm with the 2000 SV. Same colors, red and blue(darker), MSRP $5749, still naked. I saw one at the dealer last night (mostly out of the box), the blue isn't as dark as the picture makes it look (at least on my tube), but the Graphite colored rims look nice.

I guess that makes up my mind about color, I'm shooting for the yellow SVS (sorry Steve).

I don't know if anybody else has had problems with their SV but I seem to have 3!!!

The first problem is the front of the bike has this uncontrollable urge to point skywards at every available oppertunity.

The second problem seems to be the brakes , I pull up to a junction, stop and the back wheel has a funny habit of leaving tarmac.

The final mishap seems to be the seat. Everytime I come up to a nice corner I seem to slip off the seat, the only thing that seems to save me are me knees - Thank god someone invented those special blobs of plastic on my leathers !

To date neither of these events has happened in the wet, however the more people around and the warmer, sunnier the weather gets the more frequent these problems re-occur. Anyway, If anybody in the Bournemouth, Poole (UK) etc region wants to meet up and discuss the problem - or maybe see them first hand. E-mail me ASAP. Cheers.

I would like it if you could put some of these pictures on your website. I haven't seen any other crash-pictures (fortunatly...).

I have also included some pictures before the crash, right after a day a the circuit :) of Zandvoort.

Image 1      Image 2    Image 3     Image 4       Image 5    

Recalling that you queried the location for fitting a Scotoiler to the SV I enclose a pic of where I located mine, It is fitted between the tool compartment under the rear seat and the near side (left) plastic surround, which had to be removed prior to fitting.

Image 1    Image 2

Following my note to you a week or two back, I got this response from Rob. see previous posting...

Thought you might find the data useful...

*******************************************
I have looked all over the WWW for the same info! no luck! I called the manufactures direct, and have learned a few things.

Yosh full race. 3 hp on top, 5hp in mid, smooth hp curve, chopy torqe curve, torqe takes a big dip at about 7.5 grand. StockJet. also most expensive.

Two Bros. Racing. 3hp on top, 5 to 6 in mid, smooth hp and torqe curve, on Stock Jet. With a 142 front and a 140 rear main, there was little improvement on top , but did pick up some more mid. about a pony or so!

D&D. 7hp on top, 6to7 mid, smooth hp and torqe curve on a Factory brand Jet kit.

So I have decided to go with D&D! I have sold the Pipe before and  have had very good results.I will also use a factory jet kit, and a BMC filter. The pipe is on order but has not arrived. When I install the pipe I  will call D&D and get the same set up they used as a starting point.

I noticed a lot of M4 users. None of my distributors sell them and I did not get any specs. I would like to learn more about them. I guess I could buy on line, but would loose my discount.
*******************************************
hope this will  help.

Hi ! I“m Markus from Germany. You have made a really great site! Here are some photo“s from my bike.

mage1     Image 2

One very nice pic of the year 2000 blue SV650S can be found at :

http://www.jsb.co.jp/suzuki/PICTURE/index.html

Yours is a great site!

Cheers for the response guys. Yesterday I went over to Germany and ordered a Y2k SV 650 S in yellow complete with Rocket lower fairing. The dealer can get it via import and will fit all inclusive of the price for me (Well I was hardly likely to say no to that was I). It looks like Tech-line are the only people who supply (I also contacted them. Good response via e-mail), but check your Suzuki dealer coz they may well be able to give you a deal.

I have 14 days to wait, and am feeling very impatient. Thanks again for all your input, and I let you know how I get on with it.

While browsing September's RiDE, I noticed an advert for a shop selling huggers for the SV, a website was included -

http://www.smarte.net/nws/

but although they say they provide them I could find no information on the hugger. However, it is possible to order rearsets online (a picture is shown) or telephone them on 01992 501285 (UK).

I check your site every day, thanks to you and your readers for a fantastic resource.

Don't know if you can use this without the owner's permission, but below is a link to a photo of some guy and his 2000 model yellow SVS. He posted it to one of the SV mailing lists. It's the first proper picture of a yellow y2k model I've seen, not including the pics on the official Suzuki website (the colour of the blue one definitely looks off to me).

http://www.assistg.demon.co.uk/biker.jpg

I wasn't quite sure how to contact the guy so I've just posted your email instead...I guess he won't mind seeing as it went into the SV mailing list.

If you're the owner of the above pic and you read this web do you mind if I post it in the images section?

i ordered the factory service manual from a local suzuki dealer here in the san francisco bay area. it's a bit expensive (~$50) but quite informative. contains almost everything you would need to know to take your bike apart and put it back together, especially the nut and bolt torque requirements. if you're interested in obtaining this manual, be sure to specify which model you have (ie, sv650 or sv650s).

I ordered the sv650 manual for my sv650s after someone stated that the manuals are the same for both bikes. however, the manual does not cover anything specific to the S version, such as fairing and headlight assemblies.

I'm interested in installing an aftermarket exhaust to improve the sound as well as get a bit more power. I was curious if the only way to install a slip-on model would be to cut the stock pipe. Is there any other way to do this? I would like to keep the stock parts in case I decide to put it back so my most likely option is probably a full
exhaust replacement. Thanks and keep up the great site!

I think cutting is the only way to add a slip-on although you may be able to add the original back with clips. I haven't messed with my exhaust at all so take a look through this site (archives) where I'm sure this has been mentioned before...if not then I'm sure someone will offer some advice/help.....

UK manuals are available and cost £33...this information from Roy (roybach@btinternet.com)...thanks..

Just to inform you that there is a Service Manual available from Suzuki which is more comprehensive than the manual supplied with the bike, it contains a circuit diagram and enough information on most tasks that an owner would possibly want to undertake.

I bought mine from Robinsons Foundry Ltd. of Canterbury, Kent. Part No.99500-36090-01E cost 33UKP.

My clutch has gotten a bit grabby over the last few race weekends, currently Barnett and EBC do not appear to have friction plates specifically for the SV650, I was wondering if anyone knew of friction plates for another model which can be used, or a Barnett / EBC part number that my parts dealer was unable to find?

Hi, I have the telephone number for the Carbon Can Company its 01253 877900. I had one fitted to my previous bike (a bandit) and both times I've ordered I have received a very good/prompt service. I can't remember the exact cost but it about £160 including postage.

See previous posting

Ok guys, here I am again. Just wanted to let you all know that I have been in touch with Tech-Line - specifically Erik, to order my lower fairing. So far, the service has been excellent, no complaints. Also the payment method is easy, just a bank draft, and that's it. I should receive my fairing withing the next week or two, and once I get it, I'll send a pic, and also let you know how easy it was or wasn't to install etc. etc.

Once again, if you want to try Tech-Line, try and deal with Erik, he's been very efficient, and replies to e-mails within 24 hours! : )

Thanks Erik! I'll keep you all updated. Thanks Kevin for the site, without which I wouldn't have found the fairing. It's OK....I'm not on commission...now there's an idea..  ;- )

Cooooollll, I'm gonna get me some fairing : ) hehehehehe

And more Rocket feedback, this time from Alistair  (alistair.blair-davies@genebio.com) who's bought one and fitted it and is well impressed. Sounds like Tech-Line are good to deal with...thanks for the 'review'!

Just to follow up on the mail you got form Tech-Line. I ordered the lower fairing from them several weeks ago and received it very quickly and efficiently. I was really impressed with their service. The fairing is an almost perfect colour match. Not quite as deep a finish as the stock upper fairing. (Mine is a blue one. It may be less noticeable with other colours).

It took me about 1 1/2 hours to fit. It involves mounting 4 brackets on to exisiting bolts on the bike. On the right hand side, the exhaust bracket at the rear and the front bolt holding the engine in the frame, on the left side, the same front bolt and for the rear the top side-stand bolt (A bit difficult that one). There is also a bracket that mounts onto the bottom of the radiator that holds the front of the fairing in place.

The fit is good and it feels solid. It fits the shape of the upper fairing and gives the bike a really nice sporty look. I love the fact that my feet don't get so wet in the rain and that the engine doesn't need to be cleaned every five seconds.

If you're looking for a lower fairing this really is a must. And at 265 (UK) pounds including shipping you can't really go wrong. Seeing as no one else is planning a full lower fairing and only belly pans, you haven't got a huge amount of choice anyway!!! Mind you I haven't regretted it for a second and I really feel that it was money well spent.

Sorted.

I don't yet own an SV to try this on (c'mon 2000s), but on my EX500, I switched the mirrors (left mirror mounted on the right side, etc.) and actually have a good view (and I'm a big guy). Studying the photos on your (excelent) site, it looks do-able on the SVS. It might be worth a try.

So the left mirror gets mounted on the right side of the bike.....but upsidedown then.....this idea is certainly different...

See previous posting

These are four pics of me on my SV650SX. I took these pictures this spring just after I bought the bike. I crashed the SV650SX and wrote it off 1 month after these pictures were taken. I would be thrilled if you put these four pics of me on your images page. I now ride a 1991 ZX-7 but have already put my deposit down on a 2000 SV650SX. I thought the ZX-7 would have been a better bike but I found the SV just way more fun to ride and the ZX-7 is just to heavy. The ZX will be sold in spring.

mage 1     Image 2     Image 3      Image 4

Message to all......I will gratefully receive any images but please try to keep them reasonably small in size otherwise my mailbox gets full and it takes forever to download (I have to pay for the cost of my phone line to the ISP)......thanks.

Through an e-mail we found out that you have made a website for SV650 owners. Also we heard that a lot of owners are looking for a fairing.

We can supply the lower fairing for the SV650S, rear hugger (SV650 and SV650S) and lower cover seat (SV650 and SV650S). Painted in orig.colours, complete with fitting-kit and instructions in English.

Price for the lower fairing will be hfl. 799,= Dutch guilders (Euro 362). The hugger costs hfl. 359,= (Euro 162). The lower cover seat costs hfl. 495,= (Euro 224).

When you want to order, we need the colorcode. You won't have to make any adaptations to the bike. The products also have Tuv homologation (= well known German safety certificate).

Shipping cost hfl. 75 (Euro 35). (This means when ordering it at once). This depends on the country were we have to ship it. Payment is very easy and safe with a bankdraft. You send the draft (for example Thomas Cook cheque) to us. When it arrives, we send the fairing. It will take about 3-5 days for delivery.

Attached you will find a photo1   photo2

Please contact us if you want more information.

Erik

TECH-LINE HOLLAND

See more recent postings for reviews and feedback..

Are there any technical manuals available on the SV? Particularly wiring diagrams, and maintenance (carbs, trans, etc..). I dont have an SV yet, so I dont even know what the operators manual contains either, but I like reading on the technical specs.

As the bike is so new I suspect that finding a non-Suzuki manual will be difficult, I have not heard of one yet. The owners manual covers basic stuff like wheel removal, drive chain maintenance etc, etc but does not, as expected, contain more indepth information. I think we'll have to wait longer yet....(UPDATE - just shows what a load of crap I talk...see link below for more details)

See more recent postings -

I've just update Swona Exhausts website, so there is now a picture of an SV with a Single high-level can as well as the double can. I've also put the Dyno Graph up for the single can and a WAV file so you can hear it. The increase in power on the dyno doesn't look like much, but you really notice it on the road in the midrange. More gains would be seen with a full race system, the single can is only a semi-race can.

Swona can do pretty much anything if you speak to them and tell them what you want.  Swona's email address can be found on the website at :

http://www.swona.dabsol.co.uk/

nice site, I have been following the posts for a while now, and I am thinking of getting a sv 650. Problem is I want a yellow one and here in the states, all we get is blue and red.

Do you know any dealers in uk that get me a yellow tank, fender and rear seat section in yellow? I have not looked at the bike yet since they are all sold out and none coming till december... you think it would be too much work? Thanks for your help and opinions...

Personally I think it would be too much trouble. I originally wanted a yellow UK S model but couldn't get one (back in March) so took the red instead. I'm now pleased I did. I think the red looks very nice and I've seen quite a few blue and yellow bikes around and not so many red ones. Also a few people have stopped to talk to me saying how nice my Ducati looked!! Red does have some uses!!

If anyone knows who could help Ben out then please drop me a line.

Hi, for a special racing look, see the SV650 freestylemotodesign.

european undertail and hugger kit the best look with the best price

reg price:US$149.00 nowUS$109.00.....! (undertail or hugger)

www.freestylemotodesign.com

Having just traded my cbr600fs in for a sv650s i`ve got a problem with the mirrors, more to the point i cannot see any thing behind me. this resulted in the boys in blue getting rather too close, does any one have a solution to this

p.s i bought the bike on the feedback from this great site..

All I see are my elbows but this was true of my last bike too and I've sort of got used to leaning out to see past my arms. Unless you fit new mirrors it the only solution. Anyone suggest replacement mirrors for the faired model?

I just thought I would let you know, I have just fitted an aftermarket exhaust can from a company called the Carbon Can Company. It sounds
great and was easy to fit but, more to the point it fits really well. The midrange feels much better, the power now seems to go right to the red
line. Dead impressive.

See more recent posting

On 11 Oct 99 Douglas asked for more pics of the Rocket lower for the SVS. I just got this unpainted pic in for all to see. Also included is and unpainted hugger as seen in the pick of the SVS Rocket.

Image 1      Image 2

See newer posting from Tech-Line in Holland

Hi. I'm wondering if there is any possibility of your site collecting various dyno's and reports of 650s with new exhaust systems and jets (eg: a dedicated page of your site). I'll bet thats the number one mod that any 650 owner will be considering, and personally, I dont think reports of various models of end-cans for bikes other than the 650 are of much relevence for us.

Great work!

Mmm...so thats a FAQ and an exhaust page as well......I better pull my finger out! I'll see what I can do...

See Exhaust Review posting..

Crashed this morning halfway to St. Augustine from Gainesville, FL.

It was a beautiful morning (makes it even worse then....). Nice and cool temp. and blue skies until I went face down into side of the road and down a ditch (ouch.) Slide on my left side for about six feet. I really don't know what really happen, it all happen too quick. Now I do have the excuse to get new clip-ons, rear sets and brackets for Buell shield. All my buddy that was riding with me said that the SV crashes well (oh well....that's OK then...!!). I wished this never happen. I'm okay (good). My back end hurts a little and my chest were I had my little Sicily good "luck" Horn in my jacket. (no comment...)

I just was wondering if someone has woodcraft rearset, and how they little them? Were they difficult to attack to the gear bar? And the second question is about the Vortex clip-on. I have the USA SV650 and I noticed there is a bracket system that runs parallel to the inside forks that attach and turn signal and the brackets the headlight. Would the clip interfere with this system? And if so, has someone did anything different?

Well, thanks a lot for listing to me cry. (no problem.....I'm glad you're OK and have the balls to write in...anyone else with tales of woe can let us all know too....not for us to gloat over but to remind us all that accidents happen and not to take things for granted..how can you tell that was me with my "father figure" head on...)

Sorry if this is has already been posted but Targa just e-mailed back that they'll have a picture on their web site in a few days of a fairing which is available now and a seat cowl which should be done by the end of the month.

The cowl will be available in red and blue at $171.95 US and the fairing is $299.95 with no mention of finish. 

Now, I'm going out to the garage to see if it's true that 1999 GSXR 750 peg brackets will fit and provide a bit of rear set. (they did...see below....)

MORE TARGA FAIRING information...this time from John (John.Diederich@qwest.com)...thanks...

Here's some info which I got in a reply from Targa, in regards to a fairing for the SV:

Thank you for your interest in TARGA products. We have a fairing for the sv650 in production now. Available in matching red or blue, with a smoke tint windscreen and all mounting hardwasre for easy installation. There should be a photo of it on our website in the new products section by next Monday. Pricing is $299.95, they aer molded and in the paint area now and will be shipping by the end of the month.We are taking orders now. Also available is a rear solo seat cowl also colormatched, and
pricing will be $171.95.

This seems a little pricey to me, but it's sure a lot better looking than what Rifle has to offer. Also, I've heard a rumor that even if Suzuki does bring the U.S. a fairing for the SVX model as an aftermarket option, it's going to be very similar to the Targa.

Again, sorry if this is old news but 1999 ( and '98) GSXR 750 foot peg brackets bolt right on with just a slight bend of the hook on the brake light switch activator and repositioning of the shift linkage for a rear-set peg position of about 1.5" back and .75" higher. (Actually, the pegs on the faired, "world" model look to be Gixxer pegs
already)

Best of all....they bolt right on! OEM RULES! Ahem...Carried away a bit there, but I'm getting REAL tired of after-market crap that doesn't fit! I'll be better in a while ;)

Hi just a short note, I was trying to decide which bike to get, but everyone I have talked to really rates the SV. Just to say thanks for helping me decide. I'm of on Tuesday to see the new 2000 model in my local shop as they arrive in Holland then, and I hope to have done a few miles by nightfall.

Two quick questions,
1. what are the standard tyres like? (they are OK but buy grippier tyres - Dunlop D207 / Bridgestone BT56 - and you may find them more reassuring....they will wear away faster though...)
2. Does anyone have any pictures with luggage fitted, So that I have an idea before splashing out on some? (there's a pic of my Oxford soft luggage in the about me section, other than that anything i have is in the images section.....my soft luggage pushes into the rear indicators but doesn't present a problem to me - it might if I filled them right up)

I think you've just gained a regular reader. I'll let you know how I get on with it.

P.S. Anymore pictures with the lower fairing (not unless someone sends them in...)

Thanks to Patrick here's an image of an unpainted lower fairing...

Point folks back to my 14/6/99 post regarding importation process for those willing to do it on their own without using a third-party importation service.

I would also be happy to answer e-mails regarding details of the process (although I will be in the UK this week and won't get them till next weekend!!). The process was definitely a hassle, but my bike has been nothing short of pure joy that I would recommend to anyone interested in a (relatively) cheap thrill.

Kudos to your great website. I can't believe Suzuki hasn't offered you some kind of kickback or help yet. (think I should approach them??)

MORE IMPORTANT information on importing.......thanks also to Eric (ecrigg@inficad.com) ....

I check the list all the time and can't help but notice the topic of importing continuing to surface. Since I was successful in doing this, and there doesn't seem to be a lot of information available, I've documented my experience. It's my "public" service...

http://www.inficad.com/~ecrigg/sasena/index.htm

Loud banging noise in front end immediately disappeared after adding an inch and a half more oil to each fork tube. Dealer called Suzuki and was informed fork seals would probably stand this without blowing out. No problems yet. Try to add exactly the same amount to each fork. You'll need to jack the bike up to relieve fork spring pressure and use a closed spanner on the top nuts to avoid mousing them up (don't try this job with a large crescent wrench!).

My SV used to jump sideways after crashing into potholes or road repair bumps. Now the same bumps no longer upset the bike although it takes them quite firmly.

More about FRONT SUSPENSION - Jonathon (Jonathan@zx7rr.demon.co.uk) sends this extract from a www discussion, it's a bit long but what the heck!!....

Please feel free to add to this discussion. at www.bikenet.com/discus

Jonathan

SV650S Front suspension very soft
BikeNet: Discussions: Tech Talk: SV650S Front suspension very soft
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By Jonathan Douglas (Jjd) on Wednesday, September 15, 1999 - 09:47 pm:
Does any one else out there own a suzuki sv650s and have noticed just how soft the front end is. The bike is a great bike light and nimble easy to flick through corners but the front bottoms out over the smallest bumps. I've just bought the bike about two months ago from new. Is this common? Is there an easy fix? Should the dealer fix it for nothing? Any ideas
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By Dave Gough (Daveg) on Thursday, September 16, 1999 - 02:53 pm:
You first need to check the fork preload, I am not sure that your bike has this adjustment - normally a large bolt head on the top of the fork! If not you could change the fork oil to a heavier kind - this will slow down the compression damping of the fork - or fit larger spacers on top of each fork spring - the idea is to pre-load the fork spring to make it harder to compress.

Voila!
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By Jonathan Douglas (Jjd) on Thursday, September 16, 1999 - 05:30 pm:
Dave,
Thanks for replying. No the forks have no mechanism for adjustment apart from change of fork oil and or springs. You don't think as the machine is particulary weak in this area that this modification should be provided by Suzuki as you could possibly term the feature a fault.

Jonathan
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By Dave Gough (Daveg) on Friday, September 17, 1999 - 01:17 pm:
Jonathan,
Unless there was something broken/displaced in the fork I think you would have a hard time in proving that the problem is not a "design feature" and is in fact a real warranty issue. If I was you I would mention the problem at your next service and ask them to look (covered by the warranty) and see if they can suggest anything.

The other alternative is to write to the importer and complain, that you don't like the handling due to soft forks and see what they suggest.

Dave
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By Jonathan Douglas (Jjd) on Friday, September 17, 1999 - 09:26 pm:
Thanks Dave for advise about warranty. If it ain't broke I can't demand replacement. If I were to use another 3rd party manufacturer to say either replace the forks or front springs on the bike do you have any advice here. There seem to be many specialist's Renthel for instance.How would I know how to choose stiffer springs to stiffen the front end with spring replacement, the manual supplied does not go into that kind of depth.

I've noticed for instance that the front wheel looks identical to the Bandit in design. Could I simply replace the forks with those of a Bandit? The Suzuki GSX which is in a similar price range does have adjustment. Even thicker oil poses a problem as I don't know what's currently in it. Your thoughts appreciated.

Jonathan
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By Frank Haney (Saga_lout) on Saturday, September 18, 1999 - 07:26 pm:
We seem to be overlooking something here. I have read several road tests on the SV 650 and all of them praised the handling of the bike. If there had been anything wrong with the front suspension one might have expected at least one of the road testers to have mentioned it. The fact that they didn't seems to indicate that there isn't a design fault in this area. The question to be asked is that if there is a fault here, is it a fault with the bike or a fault with the rider? Get the bike checked out. Ride another
SV650 if you can. Then you'll be able to decide for yourself the answer to the question.
Good luck
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By Malcolm Lisson (Batkwaka) on Sunday, September 19, 1999 - 03:52 am:
Actually the pre-load is essentially to ensure your forks have the correct amount of travel and not to alter the compression rate of the spring. I suggest you get a friend to help you and measure the amount of travel at full extension and then with you sitting on it. You should go for about 10mm if sag with you sitting on the bike, same for the rear. Changing the fork oil will slow compression but will also slow rebound and you may find yourself running out of travel under heavy braking, which can be hazardous
on a bumpy corner. The best solution is decent set of progressively wound springs spaced to give the appropriate travel. What I say is not Gospel but fairly accurate, your best bet is a Motorcycle engineer you can trust and ask his opinion.
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By Mole Graham Daniells (Mole) on Sunday, September 19, 1999 - 06:58
pm:
It might be worth checking the fork springs are not broken, A mate complained his front suspension was 'soggy'. We were fitting a pair of 'rising rate' springs when we found one of the original springs had broken 6 inches from one end and the broken bit had wound itself into the rest of the spring effectivly shortening the spring by 5 inches. The net result was only one fork leg was providing the front suspension. Hence the soggy front end After market springs can really tighten up the front end nicely,
especially if the rider is on the cuddly side.
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By Roy Wildman (Fastfitter) on Sunday, September 19, 1999 - 09:01 pm:
A mate of mine once bought a ratty GS1000. When we were stripping it to get it into something like roadworthiness, we found that someone had put a 3/8 whit. 1/2 inch drive socket on top of both fork springs, to stiffen the front end! I always used to put ATF (automatic transmission fluid) into forks because I read somewhere that it doesn't froth up. Try starting with the bike manufacturer's recommended amount, then add 10cc at a time (to each leg!) to get the desired 'feel'.
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By Jonathan Douglas (Jjd) on Tuesday, September 21, 1999 - 03:46 pm:
The supplier has suggested that thicker oil will work and I'm going with that, although this will cost me money to do this. As for reviews of bikes and their accuracy I would say that the best way to judge a product is to buy it and try it out. The bike handles very well and this is its only weakness. As for my riding skills, I also own a Kawasaki ZX7RR which handles just fine. I've been to the Ron Haslem race school at KnockHill and they seem to think that a mark of 80 % was justified having spent an afternoon
persuing a professional racer around the track. I take Malcolm's point about running out of travel with thicker oil under braking but I'll have to take that risk. If Malcolm you know of a good motorcycle engineer in Scotland to supply progressivly wound springs or even a method of adding preload and damping adjustment to forks I'd be greatfull
to know who to call. I'll ask about ATF when they do the oil change tomorrow. Thanks for all your advice.

Jonathan
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By Malcolm Lisson (Batkwaka) on Wednesday, September 22, 1999 - 11:21
am:
Sorry Jid I live West Australia, but I do live in Perth which is named after Perth in Scotland, though I don't think that will be of much help. I couldn't say which springs are best, but I put a set of "Magnum" springs in my old Katana and it did wonders for the front end stability and particularly from diving under heavy brakes. If your friends don't know anyone you can trust, find some bike mags that have used engineers from your area and look them up.

Malcolm
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By Dave Gough (Daveg) on Tuesday, September 28, 1999 - 08:35 am:
Look up www.hyperpro.com for progressive fork springs (they can also be bought at M&P). Also White Power make progressive fork springs but I don't have an address.

Dave
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By silentmemory (Silentmemory) on Thursday, October 7, 1999 - 01:38 pm:
Don't know if anyone's still reading this but I've only just found the site and thought I'd add my bit. All SV650(S)s have the problem of clunking suspension - it is the forks
and not a problem with the fairing or anything else. As has been suggested, thicker fork oil and stiffer springs do fix the problem. I understand some riders substitute the whole front end for that of a GSXR. Personally I treat it as an aid to my biking - if I get a clunk its because I wasn't riding well enough to avoid the pothole.

The best site on the web for info and questions is http://www.sv650.org (fame at last!!....Kevin)

Hope this helps,

Paul
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By Jonathan Douglas (Jjd) on Sunday, October 10, 1999 - 06:05 pm:
At last some one agrees with me... Yes thanks I take the point about avoiding potholes and the bike only goes where you point it. Just that in Edinburgh there are lots of potholes! Although I said I was going to replace the oil I didn't in the end as I don't want he bike to bottom out and then stay down. Replacing the front end with that of a GSXR is an option but no doubt my bank balance couldn't take it. Do you think that Suzuki should produce a modification to rectify the now  known" problem. The bike's still fab though...

Jonathan

Phew.....got there in the end...

Beware of the rev-limiter!!!

I went for my first thrash in the hills yesterday (I can't believe its taken me 6 months to do it!) and now I see what all the fuss is about - everything just falls into place. The brakes, the midrange power and the close-ratio box are ideal for twisty 30-60kmh posted roads. It's no wonder you poms go mad over these things! Such roads are a rarity here.

But all is not rosey. Since I was mercilessly thrashing my beloved SV I discovered the rev-limiter and it scared the crap out of me!! I had my head down in second gear when it felt like someone had slammed on the brakes and I just about whacked my head on the screen. Thank Christ I wasn't leant over at the time, or I could be adorning a tree right now. It's bloody dangerous! I don't know why the rev limiter couldn't just retard the ignition or something "softer" than a complete ignition cut-out. Engine braking is pretty strong at 11,000rpm! I guess all new bikes are the same, but when you're thrashing an SV , it's so easy to over-rev it, so be careful!!

I take your point about the method of rev-limiting but you do have to remember the SV is not an in-line 4 and taking it to 10,500-11,000rpm is pointless, all the power is gone after about 9,500rpm. Change down sooner (I know, it's obvious to say) and you'll go faster and more smoothly.

I also discovered that the tyres aren't all that wonderful - I did my first ever power slide in the dry! I was quite surprised because it didn't just slide, the revs went up a few grand as well. I really didn't think it had enough power for that sort of thing!

I've lost the plot when it comes to wheelstands - I scared myself by nearly flipping it a few times (not quite Biaggi-style, but I haven't got the presence of mind to use the back brake to bring it down yet - good thing the engine braking is good at 11,000rpm!). If you're new to wheelies, please be careful as the SV is a bit sensitive if you get it high enough.

Take it easy(ish)...

File 0    File 1      File 2

I have become obbsessed with the blue SVS (with the fairing) The problem is I live in Orlando, FL (USA) . To the best of my knowledge they do not import the SVS's here. Can anyone please give me advise as to what I can do to get my hands on one of these? If anyone out there feels my pain or has a solution to my dilemma please reply.

I gather that importing now is difficult (more so than before)...also have a read through the archives section as lots of people are in the same boat as you...I have no answer really...all you can do (collectively) is contact Suzuki US and make your feelings known.

Along the same lines is this posting from Rick (rick.hale@gcp.org).....I sympathise...

I've just been informed by my local Suzuki Dealer that once again, when the year 2000 models come out we will not be able to purchase the SV650S.

Unbelievable to me. Canada, here I come.

And one more importing posting.......this time from David (dcolker@earthlink.net)..

I have been trying to reach http://userdata.acd.net/stratten/sv_import.html, the site listed on the links page as having information on importing the SV650S to the United States. Unfortunately, I can't seem to get to the page. Is that information available elsewhere?

Oh dear.....that was the only web page I knew that talked about importing...does anyone know where it went please??? I can't get anything from this site anymore :(

Hi Kevin, hi all. I don't know if you remember me, I'm POSSE, and a couple of months ago, I came looking for some information. Well I got everything I needed - all the info, and the bike. Now I'm celebrating my two thousandth mile. Thanks all of you for the great info I got here.

Another thing, about the fairing, I also spoke to someone at Tech Line in Holland, they confirmed that they make the fairing and will send it anywhere. If you are a little bit patient with the company, you'll get your fairing. I haven't got it yet, but I'm getting there.

About the possible UK meeting, for next year, wherever it may be in England, count me in. I have to meet you guys after all the cool info, and a great site. (I've had a few replies so far and all are positive so we'll organise something fir sure..)

One more thing, I love this flipping bike. Up to now, absolutely no problemos.

P.S. As soon as I get a decent picture of the bike, I'll send it, but that'll only happen when I get the fairing.

I thought the Hawk would still be around in the U.K. (was it ever in the UK??) It was also called the 647GT over here. It's a 45 degree V twin sport bike we had here in the late 80's, early 90's. Aluminum spar frame,gas tank that looks like a toaster, naked bike. The ZR7 is Kawaski's latest idea of a naked bike. We had a bike in the U.S. for a while called the Zephyr. This bike is a tatted up Zephyr, air cooled 4, 750cc engine, weighs about 50 lbs more than the SV. Sells for about the same price. (nuf said..)

Also see http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Track/1352/comparo.html for comparison....

Well I've been lurking long enuf! I bought my SVS used (8000 km) a month ago and am completely impressed with this machine and the huge bang for little buck it treats me to. This is my forth machine and this runs circles around all previous 750 sports machines I've owned before (albeit late 80's genre). I swapped bikes with an R6 owner the other day and laughed as I saw him crack the throttle from about 4000 rpm and almost snap his arms. He later said that he couldn't believe the power at such low revs. After comparing notes we both agreed that the SVS could really hurt his R6 in the twisties.

Now the real reason for my post. After searching high and low for the lower fairing shown in the picture archive (SVSRocket.jpg) and in Nick's message on 12Aug99, I have found a distributor (and price!).

Tech-Line in Holland sells the fairing (made by TCP in Spain) for Euro 362. That price is for colour-matched with fitting kit and seem to be able to ship anywhere as
they've quoted me at Euro 35 to Canada. They don't have any info on their site (http://www.tech-line.nl/index_e.html) for the SVS but do show the fairing on the TLS (almost identical fairing). Another option is for a belly-pan by Airtech Streamlining (http://www.airtech-streamlining.com/suzuz/tl1000.html). The pan is designed for the TLS but they e-mailed me saying that it will fit with a few mods. I have asked for the price but haven't received an answer yet.

Keep up the great site!!

See Patricks later update with pics here.

I have the Yosh Full Race System on the bike, it was installed at Graves Motorsports in Van Nuys, CA. Peak power only went up 3 hp however the midrange was up in the area a 5 to 10 hp. The throttle response was much more gradual than stock. Now there is power as I put on the throttle, before it was more like a light switch(on or off). I also have the following add ons:

Gel Seat (Great!!) and Second Skin tank Bra.

Next is Racetech Gold Valve Emulators and higher rate fork springs(.85).

Looking for more information concerning: Penske Shock, Goodridge Brake lines (Hopefully in Kevlar) and of course the elusive, often talked about, but pretty much vapor ware, the Half Fairing Conversion from Suzuki. (not quite a half fairing either....see here)

I also took a class from Jason Pridmore's STAR school. It is worth it. I took a ride on the back of Jason Pridmore's 750 Katana, yes a passenger! Incredible what a soft sport bike can do when in the hands of a master! Taught me how much faster I could go and where on the track. I also got some touring from Rich Alexander, 750 Supersport champion. Then I got a $50 discount for the next class because I bought a 99 Suzuki!!

Hi there, I have been thinking about fitting a Givi 'airstars' windshield to my unfaired (naturally) SV650. I have seen the 'a700' on a 600 bandit and wondered if anyone has installed one on the SV?

I have almost completed the 600 mile run-in and apart from sore right-hand wrist (not quite run in after 12 years off bikes), am enjoying every moment. Apart from an initial power surge and stalling (dealer had to come out and replace plugs) everything seems hunky-dory.

P.S. Excellent site Kevin, keep up the good work!

Now then Kevin, you page is excellent and does not compare at all to the bike. It's just that good. (ummm...it does not compare.....is this good or bad??)

But as you now from the subject line, I am a new rider (just passed my test 6 days ago) any information I could get on bike jargon would be sorted. If you could include my email and let people know I need advice I would apreciate it.

PS I got a SV 650 unfaired.

My advice is don't fall off, get caught by the police or wear sandles in the snow.......OK, my real advice....decent protective clothing is as important as the bike you ride (boring to hear but true), if you can afford a type-A helmet get one, take it easy to start with you've a long time biking in front of you - don't spoil it all now in a moment of madness, always assume other road users have not seen you (they probably haven't), always concentrate and finally.....pack it all in if you don't enjoy it anymore.

See Roys last posting here.

Image 1     Image 2        Image 4       Image 4

I am already looking forward to better weather next year (the cold, wet weather has only just started here in the UK!!) and wondering if we can't get a meeting of all the UK readers of this web (and anyone else who wants to join in!!) in spring/summer 2000 sometime? I guess the middle of the country would be best for everyone to meet up for a day (Santa Pod............only joking!)?

It would be good to have a chat, meet you guys and drool over other SV's....just a thought. I'll mention it again in Jan/Feb next year and try to gauge reaction....I'd hate to be the only one turn up!!

Nice website - I've just spent a weekend blasting my 650S around the TT circuit on the Isle of Man, and I have to say that it really was a blast!

Although the suspension is really too soft for most tracks, the softness means that it's quite well suited to the bumpy surfaces over there.   Meanwhile the combination of light weight and good torque meant that my mates (on a FireBlade and a Firestorm) were seldom getting away.

Incidentally, I've fitted a double-bubble screen (from MPS), and it is definitely worthwhile. At all but the very highest speeds the windblast just disappears, as if by magic...

What I'd really like to know is comparative figures for the different exhausts and endcans that are available - a simple table showing the costs against BHP / torque gain would be ideal. Anybody got something like this?

I like the idea of an M4 system, but if you can get more or less the same gain from a £200 endcan, then the £600 price starts to look a little high.

There was an posting made in the August section regarding different exhaust systems.....see it here..

My yellow SV650SX has almost 5000 miles on it now and is terrific. 50 to 68 mpg including track day running,completely reliable, quick, very easy to ride and comfortable.

I am 73" tall and with an Oxford tank bag buffeting is not too bad up to 80 mph but it sounds as if the MPS flip up screen will be an improvement - and it fits. (it should do, mine did...)

The Scottoiler bracket can be fixed using the mudguard fastening screw just above the near-side footrest. Access is perfect, the feed run is short but don't forget that the pivot is a long way forward so put in a loop.

I have no complaints about the tyres but when the MEZ4's wear out - which is at any moment, I shall try whatever you correspondents say is best.

So is it to be Dragons or the BT56s? The ME4s allow enough lean to allow the hero blobs to rub the road so can the others be that much better? If so, how?

I have no flat spots. There is an occasional clunk from the front.  The brakes make the tyre squeal from flat out. Who does a good rear set foot-rest kit? Does it make much difference fitting a can or ME4 exhaust and do they give you a head ache on a long  run?

Well, the wait is almost over. Just one more week and I'll be going to the Suzuki shop with motorbike jacket, helmet and $NZ12,000. My red SV650s with full Two Brothers exhaust has been sitting in the shop with a sold sticker on it for the past few weeks waiting for me. After I get it I'll take some photos of it with some nice Auckland (NZ) backgrounds and post them on my web site.

Your site has been very useful for telling me how to do all the right things when I get my bike and ride it in. Much appreciated. I asked the dealer about the possible recall to change the cam chain tensioner, but he said that he has not heard anything.

For those of you thinking about getting a SV650/s, I have links to six reviews at my site. All of them have nothing but praise for this great bike.

I received an email from K&N Airfilters they are working on an airfilter for the SV650 and it will be released early next year.

Also on another note I spoke to a bloke at Tigcraft and so far the have managed to get over 90hp at the real wheel with the 748cc kit and that was with standard carbs exhaust etc. They are sorting out some gas problems at the moment (Can't get enough air into the carbs) but reckon when it is all sorted with all the mods it will make well over a Hundred horses at the rear wheel. Imagine that on a SV650, it will go like shit off a shovel.

Personally I can't wait... (This info came from the guy who races th SV650 - He broke the lap records at Croix, France)

It is a bikini style fairing much like Targa offers for the GS500. Not too exciting.

I hope this isn't a double post as I also put it on the Forum section. I have the chance to purchase a '99 Demo SV for the same price that I can buy an almost new (2700 miles) '89 Hawk. I really like the looks of the Hawk  and the fact that its getting somewhat rare. However, is the SV650 that much better?

Also, I'm just 5'5" and the overall height is very important..how similar are they? If I cut the seat down, can I get them both down to the same height?

I'm betting that some of you have ridden both bikes and will give me your honest opinions.

I've not seen a Hawk let alone ridden one....

I just thought i'd let you know that i'm taking my bike in to the dealers on monday so they can have a look at the engine (in relation to engine flat spot in 1st gear @ 6-7000rpm), as i said, it doesn't do it all the time and knowing my luck, it won't do it at all when it's there and the mechie'll probably say it's something to do with the engine being tourqe-y, yeah right!

any way i'll keep you updated on the latest!

See original posting here.

Hi Kevin, just a quick reply to the questions you raised in response to my last e-mail. The tube in the air filter referred to is what is to be seen when you look down into the air filter from above, it's round and protrudes from the top down into the air filter for about three to four inches, at it's base there are two small apposing cutaways.

The Fenda Extenda is fixed to the front mudguard by some extremely sticky fixer pads, and supplemented by four tiny self tapping screws which came with it. You have to drill the holes yourself, I removed the front mudguard to do this as it's only held on by the two bolts either side screwing into an anchor plate on the inner side, you'll need a slim rimmed socket to do this and the little plastic slug that holds the speedo cable at the rear of the mudguard comes off by first withdrawing it's centre out (it's two pieces / inner and outer) like a bath plug in a plug hole. I'll borrow a Digi Camera on the weekend or sooner and send the pics.

As to the tube thing, if you look down into the air filter from the top, there is a tube thats connected to the airfilter. This is the part that people are cutting out. One more note, if you remove the "snorkel tube thingy" from the air filter, everyone seems to recommend jetting changes.

I've just installed a Corbin seat and the  difference is amazing! You don't have that "perched feeling" and long rides are way more comfortable. I've found that my valve stems needed to be  tightened, I was losing air pressure constantly, have not had any trouble since. One of the guys I ride with also had the same problem.

Chaparral sells Yoshimura full exhaust systems for $422.00 US and a place called Ridelite, www.ridelite.com, will sell a M4 full exhaust for $519.00 US. Not bad prices considering some I've seen.

Have enjoyed reading your site. Have a Yamaha radian 600, which I like. Am thinking of what's next. Was pointed to the SV650. Tell me something about pros and cons of twin vs in-line 4s. Also, any comparison to other bikes in the price range. Any word on the Kawa zr-7? Thanks.

The following are generalities only........(You'd have been better asking this question in the forum...)

V-twins have more mid-range torque than in-line 4's, 4's have more top end, 4's usually have a higher top speed, there are more 4's than v-twins, v-twins sounds better than 4's, v-twins (in my opinion) give a more satisfying ride in normal road use, 4's are usually lighter than v-twins (less duplication of internal parts), v-twins have greater engine braking.

There's nothing really to compare with the SV, it's a v-twin and all the other comparisons are 4's.....I don't know about the ZR-7.

I“ve just got my sv. Second hand but only 3500 km. on the clock. The thing is i wanted a to do a little tweakin“on the bike and man it worked!!

With a dyno jetkit and a MIG end can i now have a dynobench readout that says 78.5 hp. at the top, and more important, a more homogen ride (torque curve is almost flat from 3700 to 9700 rpms. So don“t hesitate - re-jet!!

Only problem with the bike is the sloppy front shock. Any idea“s that won“t cost an arm?

I have a question that pertains to my SV650 and lubricating the drive chain.

What it the best method to do this? I lubed mine today and it was a pain. I am trying to come up with a more efficient way than spraying about 12 inches of chain, then rolling it forward and repeating the step over and over. Has anyone used a floorjack to lift the bike's rear?? or is this too unstable?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Dave - I use the conventional method i.e. paddock stand and turn rear wheel to ensure an even coating.....I wouldn't use a jack for fear of the bike tipping on way or the other.

Fitting a Givi Monorack to a Suzuki SV650

The kit comes in two parts, the top plate and brackets, which are standard, and the monorack bars which are specific to each model of bike. When I spoke to Givi (givi@globalnet.co.uk ) originally, they said that I needed kit number F519, but what they finally sent was numbered F521.

1. Fit the rack bars:

Unlock and remove the pillion seat.

Remove the two side panels and the rider seat (as per the handbook).

Undo the two self tapping screws under the seats which hold the left and right plastics together.

Remove the grab rail.

Remove the four screws through the rubber seat buffers. The front rubbers will come away, the rear ones won't.

Remove the two self tapping screws just inside where the rear indicators screw through the rear mudguard.

Remove the rear bodywork i.e. the coloured left and right sides and the black piece above the tail lights as one unit. It won't come away from the bike completely because of the cable from the pillion seat catch to the lock. Rest the unit on top of the bike.

(This next bit caused me the most trouble.)
Make up the two rear support bracket assemblies, using the supports, two support fisher (their spelling) blocks (one threaded and one unthreaded, the 50mm bolts and a couple of washers. Insert the fisher blocks into the ends of the rear sub frame and tighten the bolts to stretch the sides of the blocks against the inside of the rear sub
frame tubes. That's the theory, anyway. I couldn't do this because the blocks were too good a fit.

The blocks are rectangular in section,
________
|             |
|             |

but the sub frame tubing has an internal radius.
______
/        \
|         |

I had to keep removing the blocks and filing the edges off until they would fit. On the right hand side there is a 10mm bolt with the thread protruding which makes it impossibe to get the blocks into the sub frame, undo this bolt enough so the the thread is not in the way, but there is no need to remove it.

As the machining is a little rough, I rubbed the sliding faces of the blocks on an oil stone to smooth them.

When the blocks fit properly, make up the support assembly, push the blocks into the sub frame tubes, cut the sticky backed foam rubber to make protective pads between the supports and the rear mud guard and  tighten the bolts so that the supports are held in place, but will still move if necessary.

Using the two allen bolts, attach the rack bars to the supports, again do the bolts up all except a turn or two so that the rack bars can rotate.

Remove the four screws holding the pillion footpeg hangers, I found that I had to remove the bolt attaching the right footpeg hanger to the silencer to make it easier to align the screws for reassembly. The four bolts are not used during reassembly, Givi supply four slightly longer ones and some washers.

Rotate the rack bars so that they line up with the rear bolts, and reassemble with the rack bars between the hanger and the bracket on the subframe. Again don't do the bolts up tight.

Screw the front bolt and washer through the subframe and through a 4mm spacer into the hanger.

Tighten these screws hand tight.

Thinking about it now, I don't see why the front screws need to be removed, perhaps the rack bar bracket could go inside the sub frame bracket? This would push the rear ends of to rack bars out a millimeter or so, but I don't know if this would be significant.

Tighten the screws in the support assemblies fully, then tighten the allen screws, finally tighten the footpeg hanger screws fully and reattach the silencer if you hade to detatch it.

Retighten the screw on the right hand side that you had to loosen to get the right hand support into the sub frame.

At this point you can reassemble the rear body work and seats, but I chose to do this later.


2. Fit the top plate:

Place the threaded "axle boxs" through the rack bars so that the  threaded holes are in line with the rack bars, then put the joint pieces over the ends of the rack bars. Again, this caused me some trouble. One side was OK, one of the axle boxes had been machined with the movement of the cutter not quite perpendicular to the axis.
This meant that one end was slightly convex and the other end slightly concave, and the piece was too long to allow the joint piece to fit over it. I had to file the ends to flatten them.

Check that the threaded holes in the axle boxes are in line with the rack bars and that you can screw the 60mm bolts into them.

Rest the angled U bolts (who makes up these names?) onto the joint pieces so that the top surfaces are are level.

Rest the top plate on top of the U bolts, so that the axle boxes inside the rack bars are visible through the slots in the top plate.

Screw the 60mm bolts through the washers (aka little plates ??) and into the axle boxes. Do them up except three turns.

Rotate the top plate on its joint pieces to the correct angle, if you have it too far forward it will foul the grab rail and stick in the passenger's back, if you have it too far back it will look like it's falling off.

Do the screws up hand tight.

Replace the rear body work, taking care not to trap the wiring loom under the left hand side. Don't forget the two self tappers under the indicators, and the two self tappers holding the two sides together.

Replace the grab rail, making sure that the bolts are done up tightly enough.

Replace the front seat, the side pannels and the pillion seat.

Finally check the alignment of the top plate and do the screws up fully.

I got a red sv650 s and I mounted it with a LASER exhaust and it sounds GREAT and gives an additional 5 hp while it also looks very nice (carbon) I can recommend it to everyone.

1) From now on I will state at the top of each posting the main subject matter in CAPITALS (see below) so that scanning through the pages becomes slightly easier.

2) I will link all images in the Images section back to the original posting where possible.

3) I have amended the email address above so that emails are *no longer* sent to sv650@hotmail.com. Within a few weeks I will no longer check the hotmail account on a regular basis so please do not send email there.

A plea from me....whilst I appreciate that reading through all the information presented within this web takes a long time (I know...I do it!) I urge anyone thinking of email me with "'what do you think of this...." or "what do you think of that...."  type questions to *not* do so.

Maintaining this web takes up much of my time and having to reply to emails with personal thoughts takes even longer. I am now unable to do this. I do endevour to reply to every email, in most cases via a posting on this page. Whilst I do not wish to seem unhelpful I will have to refer general email questions back to these pages (it's all here already, you've just gota read the stuff!) but will continue to reply personally to emails containing specific points of interest.

I know a FAQ section would help but, as yet, I have not had the time to compile one. If feel you could write one please do so and I'll add it to the web (you will get  your name in lights too!!).

OK...enough of me moaning and onto the postings......

Similar to Andy's posting (10/06/99) and Dave's (28/09/99), I came off my SV after two big power surges. Going at about 25 mph in traffic, the revs shot into the red without my turning the throttle. This happened twice by which time I was on the floor and the bike all smashed up on the left hand side. I guess I must have pulled the clutch in or I would have gone into the car in front. Very scary indeed as if someone else had grabbed the throttle.

The bike's gone back to the dealer and I await their assessment but my concern is that, though it's still under guarentee (I've only had it 2 months) my insurance is going to have to pay and I'll have a huge premium as a result. There's no way I can prove my story.

It really is a great bike and a joy to ride and now I'm stuck in a car while my understanding girlfriend walks to work (there's no way I could - 15 miles each way) through what I believe is no fault of my own. I am willing to get quite agressive about this if need be (though I hope I won't have to).

I'll keep you informed.

Hi there, just a short note regarding the possible recall.

I complained to my dealer of a bad rattle coming from the top end of the engine, especially on tickover. We first thought the tappetts might need adjusting.However upon futher investigation it was found that the cam chain tensioner had almost destroyed itelf, needles to say one was quickly fitted under warranty, along with a new fuel gauge sender unit.

This work was done on 10-Aug-99 at 7563 miles. Now the bike, S' model has covered 9986 miles and so far so good. On a different note the old girl has Bridgestone BT96 tyres fitted and the seem very good both in the wet and dry conditions.

P.S keep up the good 'site   (I will...)

I am planning on buying an sv650sx this upcomming aug. Since I am an unexperienced 18 year old shit, I would greatly appriciate if you could find the time to reply one peice of your advice. [anything on the topic of dealin the price/taking care of the bike/riding without dropping it/even links etc.]

If you have an experience you want to share with me, that would be great too.

I don't mean to be funny or anything but my experiences, and that of a whole load of other people, are already shared in the contents of this web. If you read through the postings (see Archives section) you'll get as good an idea about the SV as you possibly could have. I simply don't have the time to recall my personal thoughts, if I did they would only be the same as the ones I've expressed already.Sorry I cant help futher....Thanks.

PS...As always, if you (the great SV650.org readership) feel you want to share your SV thoughts with Raph, or any other contributors, then please do...

I just installed EBC Double-H (Supersport type brake pads) and Goodridge Braided Brake Lines on my SV and the bike now has the best brakes I have ever used on a bike. The initial bite is savage, squealing the front tire when breaking. Now I can brake hard with just two fingers on the lever using  light pressure. The bike decelerates from 130mph to 50mph like if I had opened a parachute.

I really recommend this modification. The only drawback is that the initial bite can take you by suprise as it compresses the forks to the max.

As promised here are the results of the run as carried out this morning.

Can straight out and Can with dB killer installed on the same chart.       View Chart

No stock runs sorry.

Look the new models of sv650s 2000 at  http://www.suzuki.ca

Image 1       Image 2

I asked Ian what the rack model number was....

Originally I was told that the number was F519, but the paperwork seems to call it a F521

With regard to what Givi boxes will fit the rack.....

I think that pretty much any of the range will fit. Mine's an E34 (I think). IIRC there's E28 and E38 in the range as well, but there's also other ranges that will fit.

Further to my previous email regarding TIGCRAFT.

They have just produced slip-on cans in aluminium, carbon or titanium, with an adaptor pipe to allow re-fitting of original silencer for MOTt.

Very hot off the press, they have had liners and pistons made to 750cc to offer as a kit.

Phone for details, Dave Pearce at Tigcraft, 01252 512962 (+44 1252 512 962)

Well, I received my Two Brothers slip-on kit last Tuesday and have it all mounted up. It was a no brainer to mount up but I wish I had a cutting wheel instead of just a hacksaw. Took about 15 minutes of steady cutting to get through. I duct taped the hell out of any areas of the bike within the "surgery area" to protect it from any slips of the saw. Don't know if you can tell from the pictures, but I'm glad I taped everything!

Image 1     Image 2       Image 3        Image 4        Image 5        Image 6

After mounting I did notice a very slight exhaust leak where the pipe connects with the springs. I just used some high-temp sealant and fixed that problem. It also
helped tighten things up because the whole thing felt a little wobbly after it was mounted. The fit was just a little too loose at the rear connection.

Also, (and this is my fault), the band that supports the exhaust and  mounts to the passenger footpeg must have the tabs touching, not one on each side of the peg. I couldn't figure out why it was so loose, so I called Two Brothers and they happily got me on the right track. Very friendly too.

The pipe sounds excellent. At a steady cruise it's hardly noticeable but get on the throttle hard and your neighbors will kill you in your sleep! It's not drag-pipe Harley loud, but it's up there in decibels. It has a very deep   tone and sounds best when letting off the throttle and the motor winds down.

I could listen to it all day. Matter of fact, I think I will now!! Still love the site, you da man, Kevin! (who da man?)

Greetings to all,   As a regular (every day) surfer to your excellent site, I've kept an avid lookout for information on the various exhausts/end cans for the SV to add to the double bubble screen (Acrybre) and carbon fibre hugger (on order from MPS - still out of stock after three weeks.....) to enhance my 6000 mile yellow S. Well, having a 160 mile round trip to work, one day I pull in to a layby for a quick fag (still haven't got used to that seat for more than about 60 miles....but the screen has made a huge difference to high speed cruising) and there's a very smart T595 with an underseat exhaust system - chatting to the guy who owned it he tells me its from a company called "One Off" in the north of the UK somewhere...............after much searching using the incorrect spelling I've finally located them: they will make a custom exhaust for any bike! So check out the web site (www.wunoff.co.uk) as there's a few very good pics.

I've emailed them for a quote for an underseat exhaust, I'll let you know what the response is. If there is anyone else out there interested in getting a "volume"
discount, please let me know and I'll be happy to pass the number of interested parties over to Wunoff to see if we can negotiate a lower price...........worth a try?

Anyway keep up the good work (this site really is a mine of information) and I'll send in some pics when that CF hugger finally turns up and I get a response from Wunoff.

PS - My rear METZ4 has now reached the end of its useful life - any idea on mileage from softer compound tyres? I notice we've got a fair selection of alternative tyres out there on contributors bikes........

Thanks for the comments.....I'll let you know how many miles I get out of my rear BT56....you'll have to wait a while (but not too long I expect!!)

I was thinking of buying a VTR SP1 next year, however after riding my SV around Cadwell Park (UK) on Friday (track day) I am going to keep my bike it was awesome. I past R1s, Fireblades Dukes, Ninjas, CBR600s and a RSV Milles. My bike felt a little bit lacking in power down the straights however in the corners I was really throwing it round. I managed to pass a couple of the bigger bikes early down the straights simply because I was exiting the corners at a faster speeds which they would have to build up too, they would catch me up no problem mid way down the straight, but there wasn't enough straight for them to use all their top end. I must admit that I was totally screaming the engine but it held up no worries.

What I have decided to do is spend the Extra money I would have spent on the SP1 and uprate my bike, better brakes, suspension, Lower fairings, I was also wondering if I could get fuel injectors (Do you know if this is possible?) as this must surely Boost the HP immensely which help down the straights and if Tigcraft make a 748cc kit that will be going in as well.

The bike should be even better than it is now. I have included some  pictures if you would like to add them to your photo gallery as there doesn't seem to be many action pictures of SV's.

Image 1    Image 2

Also on another note I originally raised the issue on the top Speed of the SV if I Travel at 3000rpm in 6th gear the speedo reads 40mph if you divide 40mph by 3000rpm then times the result by 10500 it equates to 140mph which I did on my way home from Cadwell Park, It just Takes a little long to get there. Anyways I will be off now sorry for the long email. I will keep you posted on the changes to my bike. (please do...)

P.S a 748 duke with fuel injection makes over Hundred horses, Imagine a SV  making over A hundred horses...