CURRENT POSTINGS  FOR  NOVEMBER  2000 

N.B. Read all of this before you start. If you've not got the right tools or if you're not confident in using a tool kit, then get a professional to do it. it involves the braking system, and you don't want to get it wrong.

Do one side at a time.

Remove the brake calliper bolts and the P clip which attaches the calliper and the brake hose to the fork leg. The calliper will be stiff to pull of of the brake disc. I find that it's easiest to hold the calliper with a cloth and swivel it back and forth until it comes free. Hold the calliper so that you can see into the gap between the brake pads. 

At the bottom of the calliper is the pad retaining pin, which is held in place by a small R clip. Remove the R clip with a small pair of pliers and pull out the pad retaining pin. You may have trouble with this, some people have found that the pin is seized solid in the calliper. Mine were fine, because they had been assembled with some copper grease.

Remove the fixed pad by swivelling the bottom out and then sliding it off of the top pad retaining pin.

Remove the moving pad by pulling it away from the pistons, the sprung base plate will make it pop out when it is free of it's retaining lugs.

This is a good opportunity to inspect the wear on the pads and to clean out the wear indicator groves with a small flat blade screwdriver. Be careful not to loose the anti-squeel shim from the back of the moving pad.

Clean the pistons with a cotton bud and some brake fluid. Any Dot 4 fluid is fine, but keep a small bottle purely for cleaning the pistons, NEVER USE IT IN THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. It will quickly fill up with atmospheric water and miscellaneous dirt, and will be dangerous to use as brake fluid. Gently dab some fluid onto the
curved surface of the pistons, just enough so that it soaks into the muck and loosens it. Don't use too much and get it all over everywhere, since it will damage paint work. When the muck is soaked, it should come away fairly easily. You probably won't be able to get all the way round the pistons, but the fluid will soak in to the bits that you can't reach. Wipe round the pistons with a dry cotton bud and the muck should just fall off.

You need to press the pistons back into the calliper a couple of mm to allow easy refitting of the calliper to the fork leg. I use a couple of small carpenters G cramps. I doesn't need much pressure, but the G cramps allow you to apply that pressure accurately. Fit one cramp and do it up just tight enough to keep it in place. Fit the second cramp and compress the piston a couple of mm. Then compress the other piston the same amount. If you try it with just one cramp, then as you press one piston, the other will be pushed out, rather than squeeze the brake fluid back up to the master cylinder. Don't push the pistons too far in, otherwise the reservoir may overflow and leak fluid.

Refit the moving pad with a little copper grease on the back of the pad. Make sure it is pushed fully against the pistons.

Refit the fixed pad on the top pad retaining pin.

Smear some copper grease onto the removable retaining pin and push through the calliper, through the holes in both brake pads and into the calliper at the far side. The holes in the pads will not line up properly, you'll have to gently press them into the calliper against the sprung base plate. Rotate the pin as necessary and insert the
small R clip.

Make sure that the moving pad is pressed fully against the pistons and that the fixed pad is fully against the calliper body. This will give ample room between the pads to fit over the brake disc.

Fit the calliper over the disk and refit the calliper mounting bolts. Us a little copper grease on the threads and torque them to 28 lb/ft (39 N/m) (thanks RonnieD). Reattach the P clip holding the brake hose.

Do the other calliper in the same way.

Since you pressed the pistons back into the callipers a way, the pads will not be touching the discs. With both callipers cleaned and refitted, slowly squeeze the brake lever. It will easily come all the way back to the bar. slowly release and reapply the brake. After about half a dozen times, the pads will be in contact with the disc and the action at the lever should be firm. Wheel the bike around and check that the brakes work correctly and release correctly. 

just wanted to let you know about the SV database we now have that allows users to post mods they have made and list what worked (or didn't). It is also searchable by modification.

Have a look. If you could let you readers know about it as well. It's a great resource.  www.svrider.com 

There have been a few mentions in the past of the wiring loom chafing under the pillion grab rail mount on the left but having had a scottoiler fitted  I've noticed that the loom can chafe on the inside of the plastic body (presumably where the moulding is broken off at production). If it's not smoothed out enough (like on mine) then the sharp edge can come into contact with the loom as it goes over the reservoir for the scottoiler.

The solution is either to file down the rough edge or pad the area (my present option till I can get the file).

The other thing I'd like to say IS that the lifetime guarantee for Oxford soft luggage is just that. The bum bag from my tank bag came away where the belt passes through it and with no argument I have been given a new replacement - excellent!

The soft throw overs and tank bag pack more than you would believe - I even managed to get a dinner jacket and all the junk that goes with it safely stowed away without any creases (with a little bit of nifty folding).

Great site as always - hope the above helps.

Here are some pictures of my free fender modification at www.geocities.com/fenderbegone 

small21.jpg      small2.jpg      small20.jpg      small19.jpg

Here is a dyno chart for one of my SV 827cc engines. I am working on a 848cc now that's is as big as you can make a SV there is no more room. I will send pictures when I can.

2000_SV_Cropped_.jpg      sv827c_1.jpg      2000SV_c__format_change_to_JPEG_High_Quality___Copy_1_.jpg

I've now posted the images that make up catalog #8 in the Images section....

Just thought that I would send in a couple of images of my wife's 2000, sv650 fitted with a screen from Axair (found from a link on your web site). We are quite pleased with the result. We have also fitted engine bars (not too noticeable really?) and since the photo was taken a carbon look fender extender.

Hopefully a Renegade exhaust system should be on the cards next year.  The bike is great and a far cry from her 1984 Z650 which it replaced...

sv6501.jpg      sv6502.jpg

I took my first ride on an SV today, and all I can say is................"WOW!"

My history of riding has my current ride to be a 1981 BMW R100RS with 180K miles. A very dependable stead indeed, but let me tell you this.......I was like a little boy again on the SV. we're all little boys really, just don't tell the wife......  Damn, know I'm thinking about getting one.....anyone out there interested in an '81 RS?!!! Please pass this on to your members. I'm really impressed with this machine!!! Thanks for your time. no...thanks for yours....glad you enjoyed it...now go and buy one!

Best site ever - where do you get the time?  I don't....   Anyway, fitted an undertray recently to my 2001 SVs (four weeks old and dabbling already!), and would like to advise that the instructions in the FAQ section are slightly misleading.

The existing rear fender can be cut 15mm after the clip that holds the tank stay. This means that 75% of the original fender can be left in place. Doing this allows you to use the existing bolt holes to hold up the original fender, whilst the undertray fits neatly up to this, requiring only four bolts to hold in place. A bolt either side of the battery symbols on the old fender and two bolts just above the clip that holds the tank prop. No dodgy straps required, everything is firm and in place.

The tank prop retains into its original holder, whist those who have an alarm fitted that uses a catch under the seat as a trigger (Datatool Evo), will find the moulding that projects upwards is still available to mount the switch to.

If you want I can send pics of the mods and how to do them as well as rewrite the piece - please advise (size of pics can you handle?) yes, I'll take anything which makes mods like this clearer and easier to understand...keep pics less than 100k each if you can please (even smaller if you're sending a few...)

I would like to link my site from your site. I have been racing my bike (1/4 mile) at the track a lot lately. I have tried to spark up some conversation on this subject in the Forum.

It seems that people do read my post, but they really do not express any interest in that type of activity. I know that you get a lot of traffic at your site (guessing), and maybe I can find those people ahoe are interested.

Also, I'm not limiting it to just racing, I'm also trying to give people information on all kinds of bikes as well. 

The address is http://home.att.net/~tunedport/bike/bike.htm 

I don't know if you are aware of the court case that just finished with Apex Leisure regarding the sale of Dark Visors. 

The company was found guilty of SELLING dark visors for TRACK USE, and has been fined, and all sales are supposed to be banned. One of the other Biker sites I use, www.visordown.com is running petition regarding this, and I was hoping you could put a link on your website, and maybe send the info to any other sites you think might help. The more bikers we get to support this the better, we are even thinking of arranging for someone to be at the NEC show everyday (rotor thing), with the petition.

http://visordown.com/yoursay is the petition address http://www.apexleisure.co.uk/ is the company involved website, you can find info on the case here too.

Many thanks, I'm sure I don't need to tell you the advantages of dark visors over sunglasses.

I'm French and it's not the first time that i mail to you. I have designed my personal page.

http://svracer.free.fr 

Today I had the two cam chain tensioners replaced under warranty by my dealer (Shrewsbury Honda Centre). I had complained of louder than normal ticking over several services and they said they had checked them at the 8K mile service and agreed that the front one may be sticking. 

It took about 5 weeks for the parts to arrive and there were no problems in doing the work. To be honest I haven't listened carefully since the work was done as it was dark, very wet and I just wanted to get home from the dealer. I now don't hear the ticking like it was before but I'll check in the morning for sure and have a good listen. 

So......if you think there's a problem go back to your dealer, get them to check it, if your still not happy push to get it/them replaced. State my example (there are others too). 

Also........while the bike was in I had a new chain fitted and front & rear sprockets (genuine Suzuki parts) - total cost....wait for it.....£175 (£70 for chain, £75 for sprockets and £30 labour). Expensive, yes....but with my Scottoiler having it's effect from the start of the chains life (unlike the last) it should last. The bike feels transformed. The transmission is much sharper and more precise (obviously). I could have done the work myself (or with John's help!) and bought OEM parts to do the job cheaper.....but didn't want to....you must know that I avoid anything mechanical by now!   That's me done...over and out.

Well Me a friend (me SVS, him CBR400) did a quick trip over to Spain on the weekend to get some money he was owed, was supposed to be 2 days, but we were waiting around for the ferry in the end, but here is a little write-up.

A few bastid things happened, but non too serious. I dropped my SVS on Friday, right outside the bike shop, as I was taking off after having a new tyre put on, don't know what happened, but it was a 10mph hi-side, as the rear lit up. Only scuffed the right side fairing, and hurt my knee, couldn't walk for a day or so, but I didn't need to walk, I needed to ride. 

It was a bit of a rush, as we were always running late, but it was mission successful in the end. 

We went down to Portsmouth Friday night, caught the 11pm ferry to Caen. Got in at about 6am (local time?) Went A roads all the way through Le-mans to Toulouse, then onto the freeway to Perpignan. Then A-roads to Barcelona. Those A-roads were SO twisty 2nd and 3rd gear tops, and after 10 hours or so on the bike, my brain was getting tired, and just wanted a straight bit especially as it was dark now. That road must have taken 2 hours alone, and it was only 60 miles. Lovely for knee downs though, even at night, as you could plan quite a lot of the corners. 

Done the deal for the dosh, on Saturday, then back up to France. Left Spain at about 12pm. We were running VERY late now, and trying to catch the ferry that night. WE NEARLY MADE IT..... 

We got all the way back to Alencon (about 1hour from Caen) and we missed a road sign....... went the wrong way....Eventually found the road we wanted to be on, after wasting 45 minutes. The road sign was about 1foot long, and yellow, with mud all over it. How are we supposed to see that at 125mph???? it's just not fair is it?

We needed gas, we found a 24 hr gas station,( credit card thing) BUT NONE of our cards worked.... some french bloke and his misses took my mate to the bank and we payed him to use his card, very nice thanks a lot dude... 

Just as we nearly got to CAEN (we can see the lights) , when my buddy ran out of fuel....., so there we are, me hanging of my bike, pushing his bike with my left hand, and accelerating with the other, easy when you are moving, but wobbly to start with. Did that for 10 miles or so, my fuel level was dropping like a stone now. 

We got back to Caen 30 minutes late, but the ferry was cancelled anyway. Got another hotel, and booked onto the 8am ferry. We chained his bike to a post in town, and found a hotel. 

Woke up at 6am, found petrol, filled my bike, and coke bottle, found his bike, after an hour of looking for it, got it running, and managed to find the ferry place. The ferry was delayed till 4pm, BUGGA, could have stayed in bed....... 

Wanting in ferry place from 8am till 4pm. Got on ferry, and got back to UK for 11pm, then 2 hours back to Birmingham. I slept on the ferry, and woke up about 20 mins from UK, went for piss, and the bogs, and sinks were full of puke, must have been a rough ride. haha. just a normal ferry crossing by the sounds of it. the sinks must be designed to be be full puke most of the time...

We managed to get given some dodgy franks, but we palmed that off in the end, and my mates chain was stretching like rubber. But it was ok we just had to adjust it every couple of stops. 

THEY DO NOT CALCULATE AVERAGE SPEED ON TOLL ROADS. We were averaging about 120mph, my mates CBR400, was on the stop for quite some time. Occasionally on downhills he was doing 130, not bad for a 400. I did hit 140 on the clock a few times. Not good for fuel economy though.

Was a good ride, but I'm knackered now. Bikes ran like clockwork , no numbness, from being on the bikes for 10 hours or so a day, and no mechanical problems at all.

Some VERY cool roads, and biker friendly people. WILL be doing it again, but with more time in hand. 

Later all 

Total Miles 2052, in 2 days, not counting the waiting around for the ferry.  bloody hell...I'm knackered just reading it!! next time schedule a bit longer and remember to include some time for sleeping! thanks for the story...

Postings from October now placed in the Archive Section....postings for November will be placed here.

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